The process of an undercover agent avoiding the enemy during a secret mission can be written as an exciting spy novel. However, the next interesting event about cryptography and craftsmanship is a true story. During World War II, an agent who appeared to be an innocent grandma, while watching the outside quietly, was dancing her knitting needles.
Granny's rigid, feminine appearance hides coded espionage information woven from fabric. The Belgian Resistance Army recruited her to look down at the railway and record the type and time of the train passing through the kitchen window.
The grandma is a learned craftsman. She has extraordinary technology, which can transform the patterns of letters and patterns into intelligence data and collect them. The eyes of ordinary people cannot see them. Only those who know how to decrypt can decipher this steganography Secret data is a technology that is hidden in ordinary, non-secret files or messages).
The review office at the time banned the sending of knitwear and crochet patterns abroad, suspecting that they held encrypted confidential communications. However, the code hidden on the knitted garment was never discovered by the inspectors.
British spy and skilled weaver Phyllis Latour Doyle airborne to Normandy, codenamed Paulette. Paulette is not an ordinary programmer. She has handicraft skills inherited from several generations of family knitters, which makes her a brave craftsman who can code in dangerous environments. As she rode her bicycle across enemy territory, she woven coded messages into scarves and caps. Seventy years later, the 93-year-old heroine received the Legion of Honor in recognition of her courage to assist the Allies. In contrast, James Bond (007) can only be considered an amateur detective. Maybe he should master the weaving technique ...
Charles Dickens, based on the inspiration of weaving codes, created the characters in the novel, that is, Mrs. Tas DeFage in The Twin Cities. As a knitting hand, Mrs. Defacci encoded the name of the beheaded person who was executed publicly at the guillotine during the French Revolution during the weaving. This is a bloody story presented by the hands of a craftsman.
Although the term "craftsmanship" was coined by sociologist Betsy Grier in 2003, brave women have been craftsmen for centuries. The earliest braids were made using a technique called "nalebinding", which was discovered at the Dura-Europo archeological site and dates back to 265 AD.
Computer code is a descendant of knitting and crochet code. It is produced by the code of wool fiber and the code of Internet fiber. Similar to the 0 state and 1 state of the binary computer, knitting has two kinds of stitches: lower stitch and upper stitch. Index variables with increasing and decreasing operations correspond to knitting rows with increasing and decreasing stitch counts. Knitting and crochet patterns are like computer programs: input a yarn and output a sweater.
Morse code knitting machines use a single upper stitch to indicate "drops" and three consecutive upper stitches to indicate "clicks" to create short and long encoded signals. The coder is a craftsman. In the physics lab at Georgia Tech, Dr. Elisabetta Matsumoto is officially researching weaving techniques as cryptography. Her research used yarn as a programmable material with more complicated stitching patterns than binary ones and zeros.
The secret weaving method of the spy is a lively mathematical topological structure, which makes this grandma a qualified instructor of Knit-to-Code, an organization that uses knitting as a computer simulation teaching simulation material. The logic used by both media is the same: learning to weave helps to learn to code. So, contrary to popular belief, grandma is actually on par with her granddaughter's millennial generation of computer experts.
Today, the protection of traditional craftsmanship continues. Susan Hewes is a top craftsman with two Guinness World Records: the first is to knit the longest scarf, the second is to crochet the longest chain ... both of which were completed during the marathon! This is an incredible feat in a multitasking coding project, and this weave also raises funds for Alzheimer's research.
Another meaning of coding is to allow handicrafts to carry narratives that reflect personal and collective thoughts and emotions. Feminists who fight for women's right to vote use embroidery patterns in various colors-purple for dignity, white for purity, and green for hope. From pink Pussyhats handmade to raise awareness about women's issues in the United States, to protest banners made to stop Soweto's gender violence Story Scarves, handicraft artwork contains coding clues, in Globally, inspiring thoughtful dialogue in the social fabric of our lives.
Some of these stories are submerged and inundated, waiting to be decoded. The importance of coding textiles lies in their potential significance. Humans are inherently capable of deciphering these meaningful codes. Craftsmanship is indelibly affected by the code, so that the yarn can also become our narrator, and the yarn show is a stage for the narrator.
Source: China Digital Science and Technology Museum
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Word “denim” comes from fabric “serge de
Nimes” made in France city of Nimes from where it originates. It has been used
in America since the late 18th century, colored blue with indigo dye to make
blue “jeans”, a type of cotton pants.
Easy care fabric for leisurewear covers a
major preparation of the total production of textiles. Not only classic and
basic denim in twill were in demand but also medium and higher qualities in
twill and chambray in demand. They are used for leisurewear, shirts, blouses,
and jackets. The original dark blue indigo- colors have changed and cover all
shades from super blue to black, light blue, light grey to brown. Now knitting fair
will introduces to you.
History of Denim
As early as 1873 denim was produced by
Bavarian Levi Strauss who emigrated to the USA. He manufactured trousers from
heavy cloth. He soon realized that this type of fabric was ideal clothing for
mine workers, farmers, and cowboys.
The production of denim has developed into a
major part of the world textile industry. Word “denim” comes from fabric “serge
de Nimes” made in France city of Nimes from where it originates. It has been
used in America since the late 18th century, colored blue with indigo dye to
make blue “jeans”, a type of cotton pants.
Jeans come from “Genes” – a name given by
French to Genoa and the people from Genoa where the cotton trousers were made.
In the 1800s, in the time of the Gold Rush, American gold miners needed clothes
that were strong, lasted longer and did not tear easily.
Levi Strauss, a businessman, and Jacob Davis,
a tailor, supplied miners with denim pants that were made from durable material
and reinforced with rivets at the places where pants tended to tear which
prolonged life of pants. This marked the beginning of the legend of jeans and
brand Levi Strauss is still hugely successful today.
Denim was first used for clothes worn by
workers because of its high durability. Then it became widely popular in the
1930s when Hollywood started making cowboy movies in which actors wore jeans.
With the beginning of World War 2, production of the jeans drops but world meet
denim when American soldiers started wearing them when they were on the leave.
When the war ended, other companies that made
denim started appearing like Wrangler and Lee.
Young people started wearing denim in the
1950s a mean of rebellion. This fashion was also inspired by Hollywood with by
Marlon Brando with his 1953 film “The Wild One” as well James Dean’s movie
“Rebel Without a Cause” from 1955. Some public places like schools and theaters
banned jeans because of what they symbolized.
Denim crossed from counterculture to fashion
in the 1960s and 1970s when manufacturers started to make different styles of
jeans. Fewer jeans were made during World War II, but ‘waist overalls’ were
introduced to the world by US soldiers, who sometimes wore them off duty. By
the 1960s, both men’s and women’s jeans had the zipper down the front. Historic
photographs indicate that in the decades before they became a staple of
fashion, jeans generally fit quite loosely, much like a pair of bib overalls
without the bib. Indeed, until 1960, Levi Strauss called its flagship product
“waist overalls” rather than “jeans”.
After James Dean popularized them in the
movie Rebel Without a Cause, wearing jeans became a symbol of youth rebellion
during the 1950s. During the 1960s the wearing of jeans became more acceptable,
and by the 1970s it had become a general fashion in the United States for
casual wear. However, the acceptance of jean to becoming casual wear is still
relatively low in Japan.
Examples of intentional denim distressing
strictly to make them more fashionable can be seen as early as 1935 in Vogue’s
June issue. Michael Belluomo, editor of Sportswear International Magazine,
Oct/Nov 1987, P. 45, wrote that in 1965, Limbo, a boutique in the New York East
Village, was “the first retailer to wash a new pair of jeans to get a used, worn
effect, and the idea became a hit.” He continued, “[Limbo] hired East Village
artists to embellish the jeans with patches, decals, and other touches, and
sold them for $200.”
In the early 1980s, the denim industry
introduced the stone-washing technique developed by GWG also known as “Great
Western Garment Co.” Donald Freeland of Edmonton, Alberta pioneered the method,
which helped to bring denim to a larger and more versatile market. Acceptance
of jeans continued through the 1980s and 1990s. Originally an esoteric fashion
choice, in the 2010s jeans may be seen being worn by men and women of all ages.
Denim is popular for long-term use and is a fashion fabric for casual wear.
General features of the denim fabric are as follows: Cotton or cotton-polyester
blended, durable and heavy-weight twill-weave. Maybe napped or printed, made
with spandex or other stretch yarns, or otherwise modified for fashion. Dec 13,
2018.
Origin of Denim
Denim is a type of cotton twill textile, in
which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. Warp threads of denim
fabric are dyed in indigo while weft threads remain plain white. Denim was
first used for clothes worn by workers because of its high durability.
With the rope dying system, the core of the
yarn usually remains white. This ensures the fading of the colors after
multiple washing. It should slowly become lighter. Denim is a type of cotton
twill textile, in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. Warp
threads of denim fabric are dyed in indigo while weft threads remain plain
white. That is why denim is blue on the one side and white on the other. When
used for jeans, denim is turned blue on the outside and because of the way it
is made it fades in a characteristic way.
Original denim was dyed with dye from plant
Indigofera tinctoria. Modern denim is dyed with synthetic indigo. Denim is
often dyed with indigo and dried many times over to get a stronger color that
will not fade quickly. After the denim is made into clothing it as most often
washed to make it softer and to reduce or eliminate shrinkage. Denim that is
not washed is called dry or raw denim.
Denim fades in time and gets a worn outlook
which is often desired as a fashion detail. Some denim is artificially
distressed so a worn-out look can be got even before wearing. Denim that is not
made of pure cotton but also has an elastic component (most often elastane) is
stretch denim. Beside indigo dyeing, denim can be colored with sulfur dyeing
which is used for dyeing of denim in colors other than indigo.
Source:
Ashok Hakoo
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As we all know, fabric is the source of clothing innovation, and yarn is the source of fabric innovation. The development of the knitting market and the innovation and development of yarn are closely related. At the beginning of the new year, the yarn exhibition will introduce the innovation and fashion trends of yarns, hoping to provide some inspiration for fabric design.
Clothing fabrics are different from chemical fibers and natural fibers. Chemical fiber fabrics are acrylic, nylon, polyester, viscose, etc., as mentioned before. They have the advantages of good elasticity and high moisture absorption. Natural fiber fabrics are mainly cotton, linen, wool, and silk.
Cotton fibers in natural fibers are relatively heat-resistant. For example, the ironing temperature can reach around 190 degrees, but it is best to wet before ironing, which will help the clothes to be smooth and beautiful. Another feature of cotton fiber is acid and alkali resistance, good hand feeling, easy to wash, and relatively comfortable to wear at affordable prices. Generally, underwear and baby clothes are mostly made of cotton. The public also prefers to choose fabrics in the selection of such clothes .Silk fibers are long and thin and belong to protein fibers. The advantages of silk fabrics are that they feel fine, feel soft and smooth, have a good gloss, and are bright, noble and gorgeous.
In recent years, the development and application of new yarns and fiber products have been comprehensively improved, such as elastic fibers, new functional fibers, natural fibers, etc. The development of knitted products will still use these fibers to extend. Because of the soaring international oil prices, the cost of chemical fiber products has risen at the same time. At the same time, the advancement of production technology has made products made of natural fibers have improved significantly in terms of ease of care and functionality. The requirements for comfort and environmental protection are more and more prominent, and it is reasonable that natural fiber knitwear is more and more popular in the market.
Luxury yarn
The feedback from the market shows that luxury elements occupy a relatively important position in the fashion trend of clothing. As the basis of luxury elements, their demand is also expanding. Cashmere, alpaca, mohair and other luxurious yarns are processed through special technology, which is not only limited to the application of autumn and winter clothing, but also increasingly popular in the spring and summer market. Cashmere is spun with ultra-fine counts and mixed with other fibers such as cotton, which maintains a cool feel while increasing softness. In addition, luxurious cotton has always been the darling of the high-end market. Super long Peruvian cotton has natural comfort, super soft and skin-friendly, and is the most valuable fabric in pure cotton high-end women's fashion. While satisfying women's pursuit of fashion trends, its meticulous and lightweight quality also brings consumers a more perfect physical experience.
Fine wool
Due to the growing demand for fine wool apparel in the international market, the fine wool industry has established a foothold in Europe, and improved Merino wool products have begun to be introduced. Internationally renowned clothing brands have thrown "hydrangea" on fine wool, using more fashionable elements in the design. For example, Italian brands such as Zegna, Dolce & Gabbana and Armani have increased their development efforts on fine wool products, which has strongly affected the entire clothing market.
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Sports and leisure
The development trend of sports and leisure products has been very strong in recent years, so the requirements for moisture absorption, ventilation, and wind and warmth of fabrics have become higher and higher. With the advancement of natural fiber production technology, functional yarns, which are usually dominated by chemical fiber products, begin to tilt towards natural materials. Well-known sports brands such as Puma and Adidas have adopted natural fibers represented by Tencel, and their deepening into the sports and leisure market seems to better illustrate the excellent quality of natural fibers.
Metallic line
Whether used in the form of single yarn or blended with cotton, wool, etc., the metal wire has a very good performance. In the design of knitted garments, the application of metal wires is considered the finishing touch. Lively colors and bright luster are destined to be the darlings of the future fashion market. The innovative application of metal wires has subverted the traditional understanding of yarns. Fabrics containing metal wires have become an important part of future trends due to their unique memory and wrinkle effects. In addition, the fabric containing metal wires can permanently prevent static electricity, radiation, and ultraviolet rays, and can effectively protect pregnant women and office workers who work in front of computers for a long time.
The above is the prospect of yarn trends from the perspective of innovation and technology. Natural fiber products are undoubtedly the current trend of market development. After that, we will analyze the situation of the latest season yarn from the perspective of fashion trends.
Source: China Textile News
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