Fabrics for Women and Children’s clothing

In the purchase of their apparel most women seek primarily for “look rightness and serviceability”. For outer apparel look – rightness is probably the first consideration. In the purchase of underclothing and children’s wear, serviceability is commonly the first consideration, although look – rightness is nearly always a factor, too. Serviceability is a combination of the suitability of fabric and the quality of garments construction. Some basic categories are hosiery, sleepwear, undergarments, blouses.

Apparel fabrics for Women and Children

Differences in weight automatically limit some fabrics to particular seasons and use. In summer thin fabrics, such as voile, eyelet, batiste, sheer, creeps, and chiffons, in winter, for heavier materials such as wood tweeds, homespuns, velvet, corduroy, and fur like fabric.

Some stiff fabrics look better when a crisp appearance is required; soft and clinging fabrics are appropriate when slinky, draped effect is desired; rich and luxurious fabrics look best in the evening; washable fabrics appear to advantage when worn in the house, in the garden, and for sports.

Women’s Skirts

Women’s skirts are cut on straight, the bias, or circularly from the same fabrics that are used for dresses and suits. The fit or, more particularly the hang of skirt is important. A skirt should not wrinkle below the waistband and should be even at hem. The principles for selection of appropriate outer garments for adults are essentially the same for girls. Coats and dresses must be style – right for the occasion. All girls, especially up to 10 years, need a roomy garment with large armholes and curved underarms, to permit raising the hands above the head without pulling out the seams or distorting the fabric. Tucks, pleats, and shirring are important because they allow for chest expansion.

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Women’s Sweaters

The sweater, a knitted of the garment for the upper part of the body, has long been a staple for both casual and dressy wear. There are two main or classic types: the pullover or slip -on and the cardigan. Either type may have long or short sleeves, or either type may be in a classic or contemporary style.

The classic sweater, not usually bulky, has a round neck without a collar. Contemporary styles are usually bulky and may have cable stitch and cowl necks. Until the development of the non – cellulosic man-made fibers, wool was the major fiber used for sweaters, with cotton an important fiber for children’s wear. But today the acrylics, particularly Orlon and Acrilan, are in the first place, with blends second and wool third.

The reason for the great popularity of the synthetic is that they can be cleaned in the home laundry machine at the setting for fine fabrics, and they need no reshaping. Wool sweaters, unless labelled “machine washable,” have to be hand washed, reshaped, and dried most carefully. Also, man-made fibers are usually less expensive than comparable wool products and are better than wool in resistance to abrasion.

The degree of softness of sweaters made from man-made fibers depends on the fiber denier (weight and fineness) the finer the denier the softer the fabric. The acrylics provide a wool – like bulkiness by crimping short filaments so that they resemble wool fibers.Thus they provide more warmth than nylon. Nylon, which is crimped also but is less bulky, has a smooth texture and a slightly shiny surface.

It is more readily distinguishable from wool that is acrylic fiber. Acrylic fiber pills more than nylon laundering and more particularly in rubbing against other garments or furniture. On other hands, nylon is more easily snagged by sharp objects and fingernails. Sweaters are also made of 100% polyester.

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Blouses

Nylon, which is crimped also but is less bulky, has a smooth texture and a slightly shiny surface. It is more readily distinguishable from wool that is acrylic fiber.

Acrylic fiber pills more than nylon laundering and more particularly in rubbing against other garments or furniture. On other hands, nylon is more easily snagged by sharp objects and fingernails. Sweaters are also made of 100% polyester.

Coats and Suits

When women buy coats they look for style, color, fabric, fit, comfort, and price. To one woman, color and style may be most important; to another, comfort and price are paramount. And to still another, fabric, color, and fit may be the major considerations.

The weight of outer garments is governed by the season. Spring coats are lighter in weight than fall coats, and winter coats, of course, are of the heaviest fabrics.

Coats of cashmere or cashmere and wool and wool blends, camel’s hair, single and bonded cloths, poplin, faille, worsted sharkskin, wool Shetland (single or bonded) are used in spring and fall. Suits and pantsuits of gabardine, whipcord, tweed faille, covert, serge, corduroy, knitted fabrics are also used in spring and fall seasons.

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Coats made of fur like fabrics, wool tweed (single and bonded), cashmere ottoman (wool/nylon bonded to cotton and other blends), covert (wool/nylon bonded to acetate tricot), cashmere, Melton, wool broadcloth are used in winter season. Suits and pantsuits of knitted fabric (wool and blends), flannel, tweed boucle.

For more news , please pay attention to knitting fair.

Source: Textile School

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Fabrics from Natural Fibers are those which are created from the fibers of animals coats, the cocoons of silkworms, and plants seeds, leaves, and stems. It is breathable and never cause rashes apart from being soft and durable. Natural fabric is the best choice for everyone. It does not change color from UV light and there is no warming until the material loses its tensile strength.

Fibers obtained from nature are generally called natural fibers and the fabrics produced with such fibers are essentially natural fabrics. A large number of natural sources of cellulose content are tapped to produce textile products. Various fiber producing plants and animals are commercially grown in order to meet the growing requirements of textile products. Natural materials blended with regenerated polymers is a new trend in textile production due to the composite products’ specific characteristics, and easy availability of natural fibers.

Commercially available textile fabrics generated with natural fibers are classified below by the source of fibers.

1. Cotton Fabric

Cotton is a natural fiber that comes from the seedpod of the cotton plant and is used to make many fabric types.The fabric which is believed to be most soothing and safe is called as cotton fabric. Immense use of cotton fabric for infant’s dresses or beddings is a live testimony of its softness and skin-friendliness. Cotton fabric has a distinctive feature that it adjusts easily to climatic requirements that is why it is called all-season fabric. In summer season cotton fabric keeps the body cool and absorbs the sweat easily whereas they give a warm feel if worn in a winter season.A wide variety of fabrics such as Calico, Corduroy, Denim, Gingham, Drill, Terry Toweling, Chintz, Cambric, Lawn, Gabardine, Poplin, Velvet, etc. are produced with Cotton.

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2. Silk Fabric

Silk counts to the strongest natural fabric in the world. Known for its softness, luster, beauty and luxurious look, silk fabric is one of the higher grade fabric providing comfort to the wearer in all types of weather. Keeping the body cool in summer and warm in winter, silk was discovered during 2640 B.C. in China.Variety of silk fabrics such as Chiffon, Georgette, Damask, Taffeta, Organza, Crepe de Chine, Duponi, Noil, Pongee, Shantung, Tussar, Satin, Doupion, etc. are available in the market. Because of its sheer variety of designs, weaving, and quality, silk textile is popular worldwide.

Silk fabric is mainly used for making luxurious and expensive dresses and home furnishings. Indian silk textile is popular worldwide whereas the USA is the worlds leading manufacturer of silk products in France and Italy are also involved in the same line producing high-value sophisticated silk fabrics in Europe.

3. Linen Fabric

Linen is called as king of natural fabric. Linen is extensively used for apparel making and home furnishing as well. Linen, being a natural fiber is considered to be safe for all types of skin. Linen fabric is also suggested for sensitive skin as its natural properties makes it resistant to allergies.

Linen fabric does not cause problems like irritation, allergic reaction etc. The natural fiber of linen makes it strong and durable. Linen is an easily maintainable fabric. No special treatments are required for linen; it can be simply cleaned by hands. Although linen is used for all kinds of clothing, yet mostly used for home furnishing items like a tablecloth, bedspreads, interlining, curtains etc.

4. Wool Fabric

Soft, strong and very durable wool fabric provide warmth and attractive appearance. It is the fabric which keeps the wearer dry while sweating and cool when it is hot. Wicking away perspiration from the body, the wool fabric does not wrinkle easily and is resistant to dirt wear and tear. It is also having the quality of not burning when put over the flame, it only smolders. Felt made of wool fabric is used as covers for piano hammers. It is also used in absorbing odors and noise in machinery and stereo speakers.Wool fabric is being used for clothing for over twelve thousand years does not only come from sheep only, whereas widely used Kashmiri sweaters are made from goats.

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Wool fabric is equipped with different characteristics like warm, resists to wrinkle, wear and tear, it is lightweight and durable which also absorbs moisture. Have been largely used in blankets and carpets, today almost every wardrobe contains garment made of woolen fabric.

Worsted, Shetland, Baize, Flannel, Jersey, Tweed, Serge, Fleece, Tartan are few generally used wool fabrics.

5. Cashmere/Kashmiri Fabric

Cashmere Fabrics are made from the hair fiber forming the downy undercoat of the Kashmir goat. The term Cashmere Fabric is often used for extremely soft wools as well. Cashmere wool obtained from goats is often treated as specialty or luxury fiber because of its high economic value, softness, luster, and scarcity.

6. Leather Fabric

Comfortable in both hot and cold condition, the leather fabric is not affected by surrounding temperature. Adding a classic luxury, pleasant to touch and comfortable, the leather fabric is soft, elastic and firm. Leather fabric is blessed with the quality of absorbing water vapor without losing dryness and retaining to the original shape when stretched.

7. Ramie Fabric

Ramie Fabrics are produced from Ramie plants, a plant with heart-shaped leaves having the white underside with dense hairs. Ramie is also called China Grass since it was grown in China as a fiber crop. Ramie is one of the strongest natural fibers. It exhibits even greater strength when wet. Ramie fiber is known especially for its ability to hold shape, reduce wrinkling, and introduce a silky luster to the fabric appearance. Ramie fabric having characteristics like moisture absorption, air permeability is valued as a summer fabric which is not harmed by mild acid and is resistant to alkali. Ramie was used to produce open weave fabrics called “Mechera”, suitable for warm climates.

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Higher quality yarn improves the weaving process. Introduction of very small non-film forming resin particles in conventional size formulations modify and provide improved fiber cohesion in the warp yarn bundle. This transient effect provides a more compact and improved yarn substrate to host conventional warp size polymers on the yarn surface. Evaluation of this technology in producing mills has provided positive results in all factors associated in the weaving process.

In the early 1800s, the introduction of the mechanical loom promised the potential of dramatically improved fabric production. However, the mechanical loom also introduced a level of abrasion on warp yarn that prevented this productivity potential. The abrasion problem was soon attacked by borrowing technology developed by the coatings industry. In coatings, surface protection was provided by the application of natural oils which crosslinked to form a permanent topical barrier. The concept provided the solution, but the woven fabric was not a candidate for a permanent abrasion barrier. Starch soon emerged as a suitable material to provide a transient abrasion-resistant barrier to protect warp yarn. This approach soon led to the development of the necessary machinery to apply an abrasion barrier and the concept was adopted by the industry.

During the next two centuries, significant improvements in coatings technology and materials have been adopted to accommodate continual changes in yarn composition, yarn formation, and loom technologies. Warp sizes are now designed to meet the demands of each fabric style on a case-by-case basis. Warp size suppliers and technicians have performed admirably in bridging continual changing technologies involved in the journey from fiber to fabric. We now are more secure in gauging general rules of viscosity, penetration and overall size add-on levels for optimum weaving performance. Optimization of the sizing formulation is now paired with the variables from the slasher through the greige fabric.

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Advances in the use of polymer/starch surface barriers now dominate spun yarn sizing. Abrasion protection coupled with nearly 2 centuries of experience has achieved what is now regarded as the optimum in painting warp yarn. Unfortunately, this experience has fostered an attitude of complacency to the potential for improving weaving performance utilizing chemicals in the size box.

The use of nanosize resins (oligomers) has now been evaluated as components in warp size formulations. On a theoretical basis, and the barrier coatings approach, these materials provide little optimism for improvements in weaving. Chemically, oligomer resins have the basic properties of higher molecular weight polymers of the same chemistry but are much too low in molecular weight for viable film formation. Minor adhesion and plasticization of conventional barrier film formers became the primary hope for this new technology. Initial trials with nanosize oligomers in conventional size formulations provided promising results in both adhesion and plasticization of the barrier coating. In addition, incorporation of oligomer resins provided differences that were not readily explained.

1.Reduction in both warp and filling stops.

2.Fiber and size shed at both the slasher and looms were dramatically reduced.

3.Increased yardage of hard yarn on the loom beam.

These results did not neatly fit into the barrier concept of warp sizing. Increased yardage on the loom beam logically indicated reduced size pick-up on warp yarn. However, multiple desize analysis of hard yarn from trials and normal production were equivalent. The repetition of these trials was consistent with the initial results. Nanosize oligomer resins were clearly providing a mechanism to complement barrier coating film abrasion resistance.

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Microscopic (60X) photos were utilized to determine any visual differences between standard and trial hard yarns. Yarns containing oligomer resin in the size formulation exhibit a smoother surface with less hard fiber disruption from the sheet break. In addition, the examination of 60X photos of the sized yarn indicates a significant reduction in yarn core diameter. Sized yarn diameters exhibit near 20% reduction in comparison to normal formulation hard yarn at the same add-on.

Examination of 1040X magnification cross-sections of yarn prior to the size box provides an explanation of the function of nanosize resins within the yarn bundle. Vacant spaces between fibers in the bundle are micron or greater in diameter and volume. Fibers in spun yarn systems are mildly anionic, natural or added, which maintain a repulsive force to keep fibers apart. As the yarn is wet-out by water, huge numbers of millimicron oligomer resin particles penetrate and adhere to fiber surfaces. Repulsive forces existing between fibers are overwhelmed and the fiber surface is modified with nanosize particles. These small resin molecules provide a like-like mutual attraction and allow fibers to be drawn closer together to partially reduce vacant spaces within the bundle. Immediate compaction of the yarn bundle occurs upon wet-out. A smaller yarn substrate is now available to host the barrier film. The count of the yarn remains constant with a smaller diameter bundle. An increase in the density of the yarn is attributed to improved fiber cohesion within the bundle.

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Source: JOHN LARK

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