Aid by Trade Foundation introduces world’s first cashmere standard

Cashmere is a raw material for making Cardigans. Cardigan fair got news recently, the non-profit organisation Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) has developed the world’s first standard for sustainably produced cashmere, called The Good Cashmere Standard. It takes the cashmere goats’ welfare into account while incorporating social and environmental standards in cashmere production.

The Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) was founded in 2005 by Prof. Dr. Michael Otto, an entrepreneur from Hamburg, Germany. Originally the foundation was named “Foundation for Sustainable Agriculture and Forestry in Developing Countries” (FSAF). In 2007, the foundation changed its name to “Aid by Trade Foundation for Sustainable Agriculture and Forestry”. The aim of the foundation, which operates independently ever since, is to help people to help themselves through trade, thereby promoting environmental protection and securing the livelihoods of future generations. With the support of various partners from industry, government, research, and NGOs, the foundation focuses on aid by trade. Beyond supporting sustainable cultivation of agricultural and forestry products, the long-term aim is to further develop the value chains in those countries where the raw materials are produced in order to generate maximum added value.

In drafting The Good Cashmere Standard, the Aid by Trade Foundation has defined a new benchmark for the production of sustainable cashmere. The Standard incorporates the Five Freedoms as defined by the Farm Animal Welfare Council. The Good Cashmere Standard follows three main principles: promote animal welfare in cashmere production, support cashmere farmers to secure a sustainable source of income and protect the environment.

Once a luxury product that was combed out by hand by nomadic herders when the goats changed their coats in May, now cashmere has become a mass market product that is no longer obtained naturally but by brutally pulling out the goats’ hair on special farms. This is how it is possible to buy a cashmere sweater at a discount store for 49.99 euros or 42 pounds instead of more than 300 euros or 250 pounds at a luxury boutique.

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The Good Cashmere Standard wants to stop this practice and joins the current discussion about the welfare of the cashmere goats and the increasing demand for transparency and corporate responsibility that this natural product demands. “The Good Cashmere Standard improves the cashmere production on many levels. It covers both the welfare of animals, the protection of nature and the working conditions of farmers and farm workers. It has been developed in close collaboration with animal-rights specialists and independent cashmere-production experts,” says the Foundation in a press release.

New cashmere standard campaigns for animal welfare, social change and sustainability
For now, the standard’s focus is on Inner Mongolia where it has started off with 2,000 farmers. The cashmere goats here are kept by settled farmers rather than roaming broad pastures with nomadic herders. The farmers are certified only if proven to be in compliance with the standard’s criteria.

“The Good Cashmere Standard provides a standard for the important resource cashmere. It meets increased consumer demand for sustainability, quality and transparency. Many consumers want to be certain that the textiles they purchase were produced in accordance with social and environmental standards and that no animals were harmed in the process,” confirms Tina Stridde, managing director of AbTF.

The way it works is that the cashmere farmers initially complete a comprehensive series of questions about their livestock-keeping practices. Based on the results, independent third parties then visit the farms to verify the claims. They also check on the proper implementation of the standard.

Brands and retailers join in
A key stakeholder for The Good Cashmere Standard is the Erdos Cashmere Group, one of the largest producers of cashmere, based in Inner Mongolia. “Erdos has been an important partner and supporter for the new standard from the beginning and they will offer and process certified cashmere wool already this year – in addition to four other producers,” says AbTF.
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When it comes to brands and retailers, one of Germany’s leading cashmere retailers, Peter Hahn, has brought in their expertise and is the first retail partner of The Good Cashmere Standard. “We are thrilled to be partnering with this new standard from the beginning. It meets our high standards of animal welfare and environmental protection and creates greater security for our customers and even more confidence in our company. With The Good Cashmere Standard, we can offer them products made of cashmere wool that meets the strict criteria of the standard for animal welfare and environmental protection,” comments Patrizia Strupp, head of sustainability at Peter Hahn.

The new standard now offers businesses their first opportunity to sell products made from certified, sustainable cashmere wool from Inner Mongolia. “The demand for The Good Cashmere Standard is correspondingly great. This sends an important signal to the entire textile and fashion sector,” adds Stridde. Apart from Peter Hahn, additional fashion brands including Bestseller, H&M Group, Hugo Boss, J.Crew, Madewell and Lacoste have already joined.

Source: FASHIONUNITED

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Fabrics from Man-Made Fibers are made from fibers which are either completely made from inorganic or organic materials combined with chemicals. Synthetic fabrics have numerous properties with the purpose for which it is produced and finished. Some are lightweight with ultra sheer while others are moisture wicking and fast drying. Few are very luxurious to imitate some other natural fabrics and some are very strong and tough.

Man-made fibers are mainly divided into two groups:

1. Manufactured with Natural Polymers are cellulosic fibers that have been made by chemically changing the natural material

2. Manufactured with Synthetic Polymers are generally derived from petrochemicals which are processed into polymer substances and then melted in the spinning process and extruded as polyester fibers.

1. Man-made Fibers from Natural Polymers

Rayon comes from the wood pulp of the eucalyptus, pine or beech wood. It can also be made from short cotton fibers called cotton linters – a waste product from the cotton processing industry. Rayon fabric is a synthetic textile fiber which is obtained by forcing a cellulose solution through fine spinnerets. In other words, rayon fabric is a final result of solidifying filaments. The process of making rayon is quite distinct; through which natural raw supplies are transformed to make it practical.

Cellulose acetate is a combination of cellulose from wood pulp and acetic acid. It is a dry, granular substance which can be dry spun when dissolved in acetone.

Made from the cellulose and obtained by reconstructing cotton or wood pulp, Acetate fabric is resistant to shrinkage, moth, and mildew. Acetate is a fabric which gives extremely soft and luxurious look just like silk fabric.

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Lyocell is the generic name for a group of fibers derived from plant cellulose. One of the most important of these fibers is Tencel® developed by Courthauld.

Although the main source of lyocell is wood pulp, unlike viscose, the manufacturing process is quite different and has been developed to be more environmentally sensitive. The whole process of Lyocell is considered eco-friendly since waste can be re-used.

Azlon fibers are composed of protein materials derived from natural sources. It is produced, like other synthetic fibers, by converting the raw material to a solution that is extruded through the holes of a device called a spinneret and then stretched to improve the alignment of the chains of molecules making up the fibers.

2. Man-made fibers from Synthetic Polymers

Polyester is a type of fabric that is not found naturally. The polyester fabric is man-made, which has a huge market share (more than 50%) compared to other commercially used fibers. The fabric is widely used in various applications and is very much in demand in markets. This fabric has various qualities due to those it is so popular like wrinkle resistance and springing back into its smooth shape. The fabric is very strong and soft as well. The polyester fabric can also be mixed with other fabrics to make a strong and durable fabric or to achieve any other motive. For example, In upholstery, polyester is generally blended with wool to eliminate crushing and reduce fading. There are various uses of polyester fabric like it is used in casement curtains, draperies, floor coverings, throw rugs, bedding, and as a cushioning or insulating material.

Nylon fabric is preferred amidst all other fabrics as it is really strong and has a strong ability of stretchiness. High elasticity of nylon fabrics makes it prime use in like of luggage baggage, wallets and many more. In addition, nylon fabrics are easy to maintain as gets cleaned and dried without any special effort.

Nylon Fabrics are availed in the latest forms that are much stiffer and lighter in weight. Since it is highly durable, nylon fabric makes the cloth or the other long lasting and wears and tears resistant. Nylon is the polymer of amide, termed as polyamide extracted from the petroleum.

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Acrylic fabrics is a kind of the synthetic fiber that is artificially manufactured. Acrylic fabrics can also be referred as the imitation of wool. Acrylic fabrics are used to make loads of apparels and many other things. The main use of the Acrylic fabrics is in outfits like shirts and many other ladies outfits. Also, Acrylic fabrics are used in seats of chairs and sofas as well. Acrylic fabrics are known for their stiffness and ability to wear and tear resistance. Acrylic also does not possess the glaze for a longer period of time.

Acrylic fabrics are available mainly in two forms that are ‘Courtelle’ and ‘Orlon’. These fabrics are known for their durability and especially Orlon is reckoned for its light weightiness. These kinds of Acrylic fabrics serve plenty of option in shapes and designs. In the market, there are several manufacturers and suppliers in the business of the Acrylic fabrics. That shows the popularity of Acrylic fabrics amidst masses.

Because of its great shape retention quality, spandex fabric is widely used as the fashion fabric. The important point to note about spandex fabric is that it bounces back to its original structure even after stretching up to 600 times. Highly durable superior strength spandex fabric is resistant to dry heat and oil. Providing great comfort and flexibility it does not put on weight on the body of the wearer.

Lastex fabric basically refers to an elastic fiber that is made from Latex. The lastex fabric is used with other complex fibers with a intent to made different fabrics like spandex and foundation garments.

Polypropylene fabric is especially meant for winter seasons because the only layer of hundred percent polypropylene rib knit generally stays dry and due to this feature, it keeps one’s body warmer. A high-quality lightweight polypropylene fabric is preferred in winter season because it allows a user to perform any moderate activity in cold weather at ease.

Polypropylene fabric basically consists of hydrophobic which relinquishes any possibility of moisture in such fabric and further its pushes the moisture vapor away from the skin. Entailing a large number of features, polypropylene fabric can simply be termed stunning in each and every aspect.

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Polyethylene fabric is a distinct fabric that is highly acclaimed in the domestic and industrial sectors. Polyethylene fabric is known for its unmatchable density and strength that is superior to all others. Polyethylene fabric is a type of a synthetic fabric that is manufactured in the labs.

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Source: Textile School

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Fabrics from Natural Fibers are those which are created from the fibers of animals coats, the cocoons of silkworms, and plants seeds, leaves, and stems. It is breathable and never cause rashes apart from being soft and durable. Natural fabric is the best choice for everyone. It does not change color from UV light and there is no warming until the material loses its tensile strength.

Fibers obtained from nature are generally called natural fibers and the fabrics produced with such fibers are essentially natural fabrics. A large number of natural sources of cellulose content are tapped to produce textile products. Various fiber producing plants and animals are commercially grown in order to meet the growing requirements of textile products. Natural materials blended with regenerated polymers is a new trend in textile production due to the composite products’ specific characteristics, and easy availability of natural fibers.

Commercially available textile fabrics generated with natural fibers are classified below by the source of fibers.

1. Cotton Fabric

Cotton is a natural fiber that comes from the seedpod of the cotton plant and is used to make many fabric types.The fabric which is believed to be most soothing and safe is called as cotton fabric. Immense use of cotton fabric for infant’s dresses or beddings is a live testimony of its softness and skin-friendliness. Cotton fabric has a distinctive feature that it adjusts easily to climatic requirements that is why it is called all-season fabric. In summer season cotton fabric keeps the body cool and absorbs the sweat easily whereas they give a warm feel if worn in a winter season.A wide variety of fabrics such as Calico, Corduroy, Denim, Gingham, Drill, Terry Toweling, Chintz, Cambric, Lawn, Gabardine, Poplin, Velvet, etc. are produced with Cotton.

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2. Silk Fabric

Silk counts to the strongest natural fabric in the world. Known for its softness, luster, beauty and luxurious look, silk fabric is one of the higher grade fabric providing comfort to the wearer in all types of weather. Keeping the body cool in summer and warm in winter, silk was discovered during 2640 B.C. in China.Variety of silk fabrics such as Chiffon, Georgette, Damask, Taffeta, Organza, Crepe de Chine, Duponi, Noil, Pongee, Shantung, Tussar, Satin, Doupion, etc. are available in the market. Because of its sheer variety of designs, weaving, and quality, silk textile is popular worldwide.

Silk fabric is mainly used for making luxurious and expensive dresses and home furnishings. Indian silk textile is popular worldwide whereas the USA is the worlds leading manufacturer of silk products in France and Italy are also involved in the same line producing high-value sophisticated silk fabrics in Europe.

3. Linen Fabric

Linen is called as king of natural fabric. Linen is extensively used for apparel making and home furnishing as well. Linen, being a natural fiber is considered to be safe for all types of skin. Linen fabric is also suggested for sensitive skin as its natural properties makes it resistant to allergies.

Linen fabric does not cause problems like irritation, allergic reaction etc. The natural fiber of linen makes it strong and durable. Linen is an easily maintainable fabric. No special treatments are required for linen; it can be simply cleaned by hands. Although linen is used for all kinds of clothing, yet mostly used for home furnishing items like a tablecloth, bedspreads, interlining, curtains etc.

4. Wool Fabric

Soft, strong and very durable wool fabric provide warmth and attractive appearance. It is the fabric which keeps the wearer dry while sweating and cool when it is hot. Wicking away perspiration from the body, the wool fabric does not wrinkle easily and is resistant to dirt wear and tear. It is also having the quality of not burning when put over the flame, it only smolders. Felt made of wool fabric is used as covers for piano hammers. It is also used in absorbing odors and noise in machinery and stereo speakers.Wool fabric is being used for clothing for over twelve thousand years does not only come from sheep only, whereas widely used Kashmiri sweaters are made from goats.

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Wool fabric is equipped with different characteristics like warm, resists to wrinkle, wear and tear, it is lightweight and durable which also absorbs moisture. Have been largely used in blankets and carpets, today almost every wardrobe contains garment made of woolen fabric.

Worsted, Shetland, Baize, Flannel, Jersey, Tweed, Serge, Fleece, Tartan are few generally used wool fabrics.

5. Cashmere/Kashmiri Fabric

Cashmere Fabrics are made from the hair fiber forming the downy undercoat of the Kashmir goat. The term Cashmere Fabric is often used for extremely soft wools as well. Cashmere wool obtained from goats is often treated as specialty or luxury fiber because of its high economic value, softness, luster, and scarcity.

6. Leather Fabric

Comfortable in both hot and cold condition, the leather fabric is not affected by surrounding temperature. Adding a classic luxury, pleasant to touch and comfortable, the leather fabric is soft, elastic and firm. Leather fabric is blessed with the quality of absorbing water vapor without losing dryness and retaining to the original shape when stretched.

7. Ramie Fabric

Ramie Fabrics are produced from Ramie plants, a plant with heart-shaped leaves having the white underside with dense hairs. Ramie is also called China Grass since it was grown in China as a fiber crop. Ramie is one of the strongest natural fibers. It exhibits even greater strength when wet. Ramie fiber is known especially for its ability to hold shape, reduce wrinkling, and introduce a silky luster to the fabric appearance. Ramie fabric having characteristics like moisture absorption, air permeability is valued as a summer fabric which is not harmed by mild acid and is resistant to alkali. Ramie was used to produce open weave fabrics called “Mechera”, suitable for warm climates.

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