In this article, Knitting Fair will introduce to you major weaving patterns such as plain, twill, satin, Dobby, Jacquard, Pique, Pile, its characteristics, usages and techniques.
Basic Weave Patterns
1.Plain Weave
Simplest weave requiring a 2 harness loom, formed by yarns at right angles whereby each warp yarn interlaces with each weft yarn Properties: least expensive to produce, reversible unless surface design, wrinkles more, firm & wears well, less absorbent, abrasion resistant, used as background for printing/embroidery.
2.Rib Weave fabrics
Rib effect is produced by using heavy yarns in the filling direction or by more warp than filling yarns per inch. Eg Bengaline, ottoman, faille, poplin, broadcloth, taffeta.
3.Basket Weave fabrics
Basket weave is made by treating two or more yarns as one in either the warp or weft or both the directions and interlacing them in plain weave. It is not as firm as plain weave, have more yarn slippage, shrinks easily. Eg 2X1, 2X2, 2X4, 3X2, 4X4. Oxford cloth is 2X1 & monk cloth is 4X4. Flat duck, hopsacking, Panama are other examples.
4.Twill Weave
Each warp or weft yarn floats across two or more weft or warp yarns with a progression of interlacing by one to the right or to the left, forming a distinct diagonal line or wale. The direction of diagonal may be formed from right to left, from left to right or a combination of both. Soil resistant, softer & pliable, good wrinkle recovery, durable & wears well. The direction of the twill on the back of the cloth is opposite to the twill line on the face. 3 harness is required for twill weave.
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Right Hand Twill – diagonals run upwards to the right
Left Hand Twill – diagonals run upwards to the left
Balanced Twill – the same number of warp pass over filling yarns. It is reversible. 2X2, 4X4
Unbalanced Twill – have the uneven number of warp or filling yarn. It has a right or wrong.
Denim Broken Twill – combines right or left-hand twills
Herringbone Twill – a series of inverted V’s are formed resembling the backbone of the
herringbone fish. Most commonly used in suiting fabrics
Twill Angles – according to the angles of the diagonal line, Regular twill – 45 °
Reclining twill – with smaller angles, Steep twill – with larger angles. E.g.: denim, herringbone, houndstooth
5.Satin Weave
Each warp/ filling yarn floats over 4 filling/ warp yarns & interlaces with 5th filling/ warp yarn, with the progression of interlacing by 2 to right or left (warp-faced/ weft faced). Luster (long floats), firm, durable (yarns packed closely together), pliable, wrinkle resistant, yarn slippage. Satin is warp faced. Sateen is weft-faced. 5 harness is required for a satin weave.
Compound/ Complex/ Novelty Weaves/ Figure/ Decorative weave
1.Dobby Weave
Small figured designs (floral or geometrical) woven repeatedly throughout the fabric, produced by a combination of two or more basic weaves, using a dobby attachment on the loom. Weaving pattern controlled by a plastic tape with punched holes that control the raising & lowering of warp yarns. It uses up to 32 harnesses.
2.Jacquard Weave
Characteristics: highly intricate large designs using colored yarns and multi-weaves produced on a loom with jacquard attachment. Incorporates all 3 basic weaves & their combination. Each warp yarn is controlled separately by punched cards that are laced together in a continuous strip. Are more expensive. Used for home furnishing, apparel, elaborate & decorative fabrics. Eg Brocade, Damask, tapestry, brocatelle, matelasse.
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3.Surface Figure /Extra Yarn Weaves
Extra warp or weft yarn introduced in fabric to produce designs at regular intervals. Between 2 motifs, extra yarn floats across back of fabric Clipped / unclipped Spot – embroidery-like design is achieved through either extra warp or weft yarn. Long floats on the back when the cut is called Clipped Spot & when uncut – Unclipped Spot.
Swivel – contains extra filling yarns. In these weaves, the extra yarn is interlaced with the background at different places to avoid pulling. These are stronger than Spot weave.
Lappet – contains extra warp yarns.
4.Pique Weave
Lightweight to heavyweight cotton fabric with a raised woven design. Lengthwise wales or cords on the face of fabric (formed by extra warp yarns) that are held in place by crosswise weft floats on the back of the fabric. Extra warp yarns (stuffer yarns) do not show on the face of the fabric. They are not interwoven but laid under the cords to emphasize the quilted effect. Made of dobby or jacquard loom. Eg waffle, huck toweling, granite, honeycomb, bedcord, pique.
5.Double Cloth
They are made with 3, 4 or 5 sets of yarn. Two fabrics are woven together on the same loom, one above the other & laced together with an extra set of warp or weft yarns called binder yarns (5 sets of yarns). Pile fabrics are commonly prepared by this method. Produces a variety of fabrics, reversible, stable, may have different color or design on the two sides. Used for upholstery, drapery, and heavy apparels.
Source: Textile School
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In this article, underwear fair will introduce bra styling . Today’s Brassieres are made of many different materials including cotton, rayon, silk, spandex, polyester, and lace. They are available in many styles from cups that come without any padding (and are quite sheer) to those that add significantly to the size and shape of the cup. A woman can alter her silhouette by simply purchasing a brassiere with cups that are designed to render a specific shape.
Design of Brassieres
The design process for developing a new brassiere style is an important part of the manufacturing process. Brassiere manufacturers, like other clothing manufacturers, must supply not just a functional item but one that appeals to a large enough segment of women that the products can be sold with a profit. Before a new product or product line is designed, the marketing and sales departments review data on the current line of products. They examine comments from retailers as to what they feel might sell well, female consumer attitudes in general and trends in women’s purchasing habits. They may also talk to focus groups who offer their opinions on products and needs.
By the time this review is complete, the marketers and designers have decided on the next season’s collection. Decisions are based on how the new styles will be positioned within the collection, special features, cut, sizing, production costs, market pricing, quality specifications, and when the new product will be launched publicly. These general specifications are essential for the designers and design engineers to use as guidelines once they leave that meeting.
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Prototype drawings are made, pattern pieces are designed, and often the pattern pieces are devised using computerized programs. Components of the brassiere—cup top and bottom and side, central and back panels—render the shape. These components are cut out of cardboard using a computerized cutter. This prototype is assembled and is subject to important fine-tuning and modification. It is important to note that more styles and prototypes are created than the company intends to produce. After modifications, the appropriate prototypes are selected. Computer production of the pattern is very useful to size the pattern in order to fit different sizes of women.
Final selections are tested by laboratories to ensure quality, fit, sizing, etc. Then, the prototype is manufactured in the factory in some quantity and tested once again by everyone from designers to shop foremen to marketers. When all agree on the quality, fit, and market appeal, the brassiere is ready to be produced in quantity.
Bra Styling Options
The four elements of a basic bra include a bra band, cups, straps, and a closure (see Anatomy of a bra). Variations in these key elements determine the bra style. A full-band style, for example, offers the most support; it has a continuous band that extends around the body, with the cups set into it. A partial-band style has a band attached to the sides of the cups, with a center-front piece or hook separating them. The bra band may be a single layer or lining.
Variations in the four basic elements of a bra band, cup, strap, and closure—determine bra style. This basic bra has a partial band, a two-piece cup with underwires, wide comfort straps, and a back closure.
In addition to the basic bra style, other style variations include a full band, padded push-up, front closure, and sports bra, based on the patterns in parentheses. You may find similar features on other patterns.
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Cups can be made of one, two, or three lined or unlined sections, with two being the most common. Cups may or may not include underwires for shaping. Lace cups are often lined with sheer tricot to add stability and reduce scratchiness. You can even add padding to the cups to make a push-up bra like the orange lace one in the photo above.
Straps can be made of strap elastic (less stretchy than regular elastic), nonstretchy strapping, or self-fabric, with or without an adjuster (the most common is a ring-and-slide adjustment). Nonstretchy straps usually have some elastic at the back for ease of movement.
Bras close in either the front or back with hooks and back closures usually have two or three size adjustments. Many sports bras pull on, with no closures at all.
Source: Textile School
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