Linen Fiber and Linen Fabrics from the Flax Plants

Linen fabric is made from the cellulose fibers that grow inside of the stalks of the flax plant, or Linum usitatissimum, one of the oldest cultivated plants in human history. This article Knitting fair introduces to you.

Textiles in a Linen weave texture, even when made of cotton, hemp, and other non-flax fibers, are also loosely referred to as “linen”. Such fabrics generally also have their own specific names, for example, fine cotton yarn in a linen-style weave is called Madapolam.

Flax/Linen Clothing

Linen fabric has many attractive properties and all of them are most easily appreciated when wearing linen clothing. Over the past 30 years, the end use of linen has changed dramatically. Approximately 70% of linen production in the 1990s was for apparel textiles, whereas in the 1970s only about 5% was used for fashion fabrics.

The main benefit of wearing linen clothes in hot weather is the coolness they provide. Thanks to the weave and linen fiber specifics linen fabric allow more airflow and its structure means it stays away from your skin allowing better airflow over your body. Linen is a “stiff” fabric and is less likely to cling to the skin; when it billows away, it quickly dries out and becomes cool again. Summer clothes made of linen possess high air permeability, which allows air to flow through the fabric easily and allows the body to breathe.

Linen is a “stiff” fabric and is less likely to cling to the skin; when it billows away, it quickly dries out and becomes cool again. Summer clothes made of linen possess high air permeability, which allows air to flow through the fabric easily and allows the body to breathe.

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Next, to coolness and high absorbency, linen has one more very favorable property – good heat conductivity characteristics. Heat conductivity refers to the extent to which heat can be conveyed through the fabric. As linen quickly allows the heat to escape, it further improves cooling. It is claimed, that heat conductivity of linen is five times higher than wool and eighteen times higher than silk. One more thing – linen weave reflects heat better, too. This means linen blouse, linen dress or shirt has good “shading” properties as well and again – the wearer of linen clothing feels cooler.

The legacy of Flax/Linen

In the past, linen was also used for books (the only surviving example of which is the Liber Linteus). Due to its strength, in the Middle Ages linen was used for shields, gambesons, and bowstrings; in classical antiquity, it was used to make a type of body armor, referred to as a linothorax.

Flax/Linen Applications

Linen uses range across bed and bath fabrics (tablecloths, bath towels, dish towels, bed sheets); home and commercial furnishing items (wallpaper/wall coverings, upholstery, window treatments); apparel items (suits, dresses, skirts, shirts); and industrial products (luggage, canvases, sewing thread). It was once the preferred yarn for hand sewing the uppers of moccasin-style shoes (loafers) but has been replaced by synthetics.

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Flax/Linen Source

Linen is bast fiber. Linen is a textile made from hairs of the flax plant. Linen fabric is made from the cellulose fibers that grow inside of the stalks of the flax plant, or Linum usitatissimum, one of the oldest cultivated plants in human history. Flax is an annual plant, which means it only lives for one growing season. It is thicker than cotton and linen fiber has variable lengths, most of which are very long. This contributes to strength, which contributes to longevity. Linen fabric lasts a very long time.

Linen is laborious to manufacture, but the fiber is very absorbent and garments made of linen are valued for their exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather. Linen/Flax fibers vary in length from about 25 to 150 mm (1 to 6 inches) and average 12–16 micrometers in diameter. There are two varieties: shorter tow fibers used for coarser fabrics and longer line fibers used for finer fabrics. Flax fibers can usually be identified by their “nodes” which add to the flexibility and texture of the fabric. The cross-section of the linen fiber is made up of irregular polygonal shapes which contribute to the coarse texture of the fabric.

For more knitwear knowledge, please pay attention to the knitting fair.

Source: textiles school

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This article Knitting fair introduces a modified form of polyamide Nylon to you. Aramid fibre is an innovation and modified form of polyamide Nylon. Further innovations were carried out to develop a fibre which can have enormous advantages over nylon fibres and possess unique properties such as ultra-high strength, rigid & highly oriented molecular structure, lightweight, low flammability, resistance to abrasion & organic solvents, etc. The Aramid fibres were developed which means Ar—-Aromatic, and amid—Amides.

Two aromatic rings are attached to Amide linkages and are called aromatic polyamides. These are classified in two forms with their trade names Nomex (meta-aramid) and Kevlar (para-aramid). These two are most common. The other names are Twaron, technora, Heracron, etc. They are modified forms of polyamides (Nylon, Polyester)

ARAMID is a synthetic fibre that is produced by spinning a solid fibre from solution. The initial preparation of the polymer is generally achieved by a chemical reaction between the amine group and a carboxylic acid halide group. Once the polymer has been produced, the aramid fibre is then created by spinning. This was developed by DuPont with their trade name Kevlar fibre and Teijin developed Twaron fibre. There are many grades available in the market with properties to suit their applications, especially in aerospace and military industries. The inherent bond strength is due to the orientation of molecules along the fibre axis. Aramid is a synthetic fibre that is produced by spinning a solid fibre from solution. The initial preparation of the polymer is generally achieved by a chemical reaction between the amine group and a carboxylic acid halide group. Once the polymer has been produced, the aramid fibre is then created by spinning.

Kevlar is manufactured from a polymer which is highly insoluble in the solution and needs to add concentrated sulfuric acid. This is necessary to keep the highly insoluble polymer in solution form during synthesis and spinning.

The manufacturing process of Kevlar is expensive and dangerous partly because it is dissolved in concentrated sulfuric acid. Unlike HDPE high molecular weight polyethylene, the kevlar® molecule is polar. This property allows other substances including water to attach themselves to the Aramid. This allows it to be more active chemically than UHMWPE (Dyneema®, Spectra®) It also means it can be bonded for example to epoxy, and it is wettable.

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DuPont™ Kevlar® is an organic fibre in the aromatic polyamide family. The unique properties and distinct chemical composition of wholly aromatic polyamides (aramids) distinguish them – and especially Kevlar® – from other commercials, man-made fibres.

Kevlar® has a unique combination of high strength, high modulus, toughness and thermal stability. It was developed for demanding industrial and advanced-technology applications. Currently, many types of Kevlar® are produced to meet a broad range of end uses.

Aramid definition—This product has been defined in different ways as per their inherent properties by different researchers.

any of a class of synthetic polyamides that are formed from aromatic monomers, and yield fibres of exceptional strength and thermal stability.

any of a class of synthetic aromatic long-chain polyamides capable of extrusion into fibres having resistance to high temperatures and great strength.

any of a group of synthetic fire-resistant and strong polyamides used to make textiles or plastics

any of a group of lightweight but very strong heat-resistant synthetic aromatic polyamide materials that are fashioned into fibres, filaments, or sheets and used especially in textiles and plastics.

any of various flame-resistant and strong synthetic fibres used in.

Keany of a class of synthetic aromatic long-chain polyamides capable of extrusion into very strong heat-resistant fibres.

English dictionary definition of aramid fibre. n. A strong, heat-resistant fibre formed of polymers with repeating aromatic groups branching from a carbon backbone, having flame retardant properties

The word aramid comes from a blend of the words “aromatic” and “polyamide” and is a general term for a manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long chain synthetic polyamide, in which at least 85% is of amide linkages (-CO-NH-) attached directly to two aromatic rings, (as defined by the U.S Federal)

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Advantages

Aramid main advantages are high strength and low weight. Like graphite, it has a slightly negative axial coefficient of thermal expansion, which means aramid laminates can be made thermally stable in dimensions. Unlike graphite, it is very resistant to impact and abrasion damage. It can be made waterproof when combined with other materials like epoxy. It can be used as a composite with rubber retaining its flexibility. High tensile modulus and low breakage elongation combined with very good resistance to chemicals make it the right choice for different composite structural parts in various applications.

Disadvantages

On the other side, aramid has a few disadvantages. The fibres absorb moisture, so aramid composites are more sensitive to the environment than glass or graphite composites. For this reason, it must be combined with moisture resistant materials like epoxy systems. Compressive properties are relatively poor too. Consequently, aramid is not used in bridge building or wherever this kind of resistance is needed. Also, aramid fibres are difficult to cut and to grind without special equipment (e.g. special scissors for cutting, special drill bits). Finally, they suffer some corrosion and are degraded by UV light. For this reason, they must be properly coated.

For more knitwear knowledge, please pay attention to the knitting fair.

Source: textiles school

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Pashmina is another name for Cashmere is a downy undercoat of the Capra Hircus Laniger goats that mainly live in the Trans-Himalayan regions classified as speciality hair fibres which possess special qualities of fineness and lustre, which is used for making finest quality shawls and hijabs. This article Knitting fair introduces to you.

Pashmina, a prince of the speciality hair fibre is one of the finest natural fibre. Encyclopedia of textiles (1980) defines speciality hair fibres as the rare animal fibres which possess special qualities of fineness and lustre. Pashmina is the down fibres or undercoat derived from domestic goat known as Capra hircus, which is native to India (Von Bergen, 1963). Pashmina can also be defined as the down (undercoat) fibre derived from Cashmere goats with a diameter of 15 microns or less (ASTM, D-123-59).

Pashmina has derived its name from the Persian word “pashm“ meaning “soft gold“, the king of fibres (Anon, 2005). It is well known for its fineness, warmth, softness, desirable aesthetic value, elegance and timelessness in fashion. It is the most luxurious fibre which is much softer than superfine merino wool of the same diameter with the result it commands a much higher price. It has occupied a unique position among the fibres of animal origin because of its warmth, lightness, handle and its better ability to absorb dyes and moisture.

On an equal weight basis, it is having 3 times more insulating capacity as that of wool (Von Bergen, 1963). The term Pashmina is also known as Cashmere, Kashmir, Pashm, Tiflit, Tiftik, Tivit, Tibit based on the effect on fibre yield. There is an apparent variation in the fibre length of Pashmina from different body regions in case of both male and females. As Pashmina grows as the undercoat and acts as a protective mechanism in Pashmina goats, so the sub-zero winter temperature also has an effect on the growth of Pashmina fibres.

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Properties of Pashmina Fibers

Wool is one of the first fibres to be spun into yarns and woven into cloth.

Resilience: Resist wrinkling, wrinkles hang out between wearings. Fabrics tend to hold their shape during wear.

Hygroscopic: comfortable in cool. Moisture prevents brittleness in carpets.

Weaker when wet: Handle carefully during washing. Wool loses about 40% of its strength when wet.

Specific gravity: Fabrics feel lighter than cellulosics of the same thickness.

Harmed by alkalies: Use natural or slightly alkaline soap or detergent. Perspiration weakens the fibre.

Harmed by oxidizing agents: Chlorine bleaches damage fibre so should not be used.

Harmed by dry heat: Wool becomes harsh and brittle and scorches easily with dry heat.

Flame resistant: Does not burn readily, are self-extinguishing, have the odour of burning hair and form black crushable ash.

Wool Grading: Grading and sorting are two marketing operations that put wool of like character together. In grading the wool fleece is judged for fineness and length. Each fleece contains more than one quality of wool. In sorting the individual fleece is pulled apart into sections of different- quality fibres.

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Difference Between Cashmere and Pashmina

Cashmere shawls are being made in Kashmir and Nepal for thousands of years. Both, the Pashmina and Cashmere shawls are derived from mountain sheep. The main difference between them is the diameter of the fibre. The Pashmina fibres are finer and thinner than the cashmere ones and, therefore, ideal for making lightweight apparel like fine scarve.

Well to be fair enough to check the originality of pashmina is a very difficult job, only an experienced person can differentiate between a real one and a fake one. I can give you the characteristics of pashmina, which may help you.

First thing Pashmina is the Superior Quality of Wool after Shahtoosh,

Superiority depends upon the capability of certain fabric to give out Warmth,

Pashmina is the Down hair of Chegu (Changthani), an antelope who live in Changthang plateau of the Kashmir region, where the temperature drops to -40 degree Celsius.

The Thickness of pashmina yarn should be 11 to 12.5 Microns, below11 microns is shahtoosh and above 12.5 microns is cashmere.

For a perfect Pashmina Shawls it needs to be Handmade if it is not handmade please Don’t call it Pashmina.

A Good Quality Pashmina Shawl must weight +/- 200 gm.

The tight weave of a shawls makes it durable for a lifetime.

After reading this article, Knitting fair hope that everyone will stop being confused.

Source: textiles school

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