The Importance of Sustainability in Denim

As far as knitting fair knows, Growing concern over the environmental and health impacts of textiles in general and denim, in particular, are putting pressure on companies to employ more sustainable production methods.

Every closet has at least one item of denim — whether it be blue jeans, a denim jacket, or vintage overalls that our grandparents used to wear. First used in the 19th century in the form of heavy work jeans, it has since become a wardrobe staple. From 200 pairs of jeans being sold, the number produced every year has risen to 6 billion. And at the rate the fashion industry is going, we’re on track to make billions more. But just how sustainable is denim production?

Blue is not so green

The fabric used to make denim clothing is cotton or some type of cotton blend. It is first harvested, separated into fibers, then put into bales. To make a pair of jeans, our denim fabric construction guide here on Textile School explains that the material undergoes a weaving process to make yarn, which is then dyed into indigo or other colors depending on the design.

The production of denim also involves several chemical washes to make them softer or more wearable and to eliminate shrinkage. Manufacturers can then put the clothing through different processes to produce specific styles, like distressed or faded jeans.

This production cycle of denim, from harvesting the raw material to packaging the final product, makes use of vast amounts of water. In fact, The Fashion Law’s rundown of water consumption in denim production shows that it takes 1,800 gallons of water just to grow the cotton that goes into a single pair of jeans. Moreover, 1.3 trillion gallons of water are used annually to dye fabric, including denim. This doesn’t even entail the water required to wash and produce special effects in a trendy pair of denim pants.

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Aside from the enormous consumption of water, denim production is also a known culprit in water pollution. About 70% of Asia’s rivers and lakes are contaminated by garment manufacturing, of which denim is a major contributor. The production cycle involves heavy use of chemicals that produce run-offs and end up in bodies of water. These chemicals, which include lead and mercury, are also toxic to workers and communities where factories are set up. These are all issues that the textile industry is currently facing, as explored by our Textiles: Environmental Issues and Sustainability report.

Sustainable production of denim

Growing concern over the environmental and health impacts of textiles in general and denim, in particular, are putting pressure on companies to employ more sustainable production methods. One example of these environmentally responsible practices is using a micro-irrigation system that can save water usage in the early part of denim’s life cycle.

Textile manufacturers can also switch to organic pesticides to minimize the chemical exposure of workers and reduce toxic waste drained into bodies of water. As for achieving the classic denim look, C&EN reports that digital printing has become available, which can serve as a more sustainable alternative to dyeing and similar techniques. It can help solve the environmental impacts of dyeing fabric, such as producing toxic waste and human exposure to harmful chemicals.

But consumers also have a role in making denim more sustainable. Textile manufacturers can actively encourage their clients to opt for more eco-conscious fabrics from the multitude of brands that have started popping up. They can also promote ways to repurpose unused clothing, and Pretty Me’s guide to denim upcycling proves that there are many creative ways to do this. Old blue jeans can be turned into floor cushions, patchwork rugs or quilts, stylish purses, and even stuffed toys for children to enjoy.

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The bottom line is that we all play a part in bringing sustainability to denim as it is traditionally harmful to the environment. Whether it’s finding creative uses for our old pair of work jeans or supporting sustainably made denim products, our individual choices will hopefully compel textile manufacturers to turn to more sustainable practices for the sake of our planet’s future. For more knitwear knowledge, please pay attention to the knitting fair.

Source: textiles school

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Personal protective equipment (PPE) is used in a wide range of industries to protect workers from exposure to workplace hazards and is designed to address requirements specific to the context of its use. In healthcare, the goal of PPE is to protect healthcare personnel (HCP) from body fluids and infectious organisms via contact, droplet, or airborne transmission. This article Knitting fair introduces to you.

The ideal face mask blocks large respiratory droplets from coughs or sneezes – the primary method by which people pass the coronavirus to others – along with smaller airborne particles, called aerosols, produced when people talk or exhale. The World Health Organisation recommends medical masks for healthcare workers, elderly people, people with underlying health conditions, and people who have tested positive for the coronavirus or show symptoms.

Types of Masks

Two medical-grade masks, N99 and N95, are the most effective at filtering viral particles. N99 masks reduced a person’s risk of infection by 94 to 99 per cent after 20 minutes of exposure in a highly contaminated environment. N95 masks offered almost as much protection – the name refers to its minimum 95 per cent efficiency at filtering aerosols. N95 masks offered better protection than surgical masks.

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Disposable surgical masks are a close second. Surgical masks are made of nonwoven fabric, so they’re usually the safest option for healthcare workers who don’t have access to an N99 or N95 mask. Surgical masks reduced the transmission of multiple human coronaviruses through both respiratory droplets and smaller aerosols. In general, surgical masks are about three times effective in blocking virus-containing aerosols than homemade face masks.

Hybrid masks – combining two layers of 600-thread-count cotton with another material like silk, chiffon, or flannel – filtered more than 80 per cent of small particles (less than 300 nanometres) and more than 90 per cent of larger particles (bigger than 300 nanometres). A combination of cotton and chiffon offered the most protection, followed by cotton and flannel, cotton and silk, and four layers of natural silk. These options may even be better at filtering small particles than an N95 mask, though they weren’t necessarily better at filtering larger particles. Two layers of 600-thread-count cotton or two layers of chiffon might be better at filtering small particles than a surgical mask. Three layers of cotton or silk are also highly protective.

Mask Specification Requirements

WHO recommends that fabric masks have three layers: an inner layer that absorbs, a middle layer that filters, and an outer layer made from a non-absorbent material like polyester. Three layers of either a silk shirt or a 100 per cent cotton T-shirt may be just as protective as a medical-grade mask. Silk, in particular, has electrostatic properties that can help trap smaller viral particles.

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Masks have very specific performance requirements. Standard Test Method for Evaluating the Bacterial Filtration Efficiency (BFE) of Medical Face Mask Materials, using a Biological Aerosol of Staphylococcus aureus by using ASTM F2101 has been summarised below:

This test method offers a procedure for evaluation of medical face mask materials for bacterial filtration efficiency.

This test method does not define acceptable levels of bacterial filtration efficiency. Therefore, when using this test method it is necessary to describe the specific condition under which testing is conducted.

This test method has been specifically designed for measuring bacterial filtration efficiency of medical face masks, using Staphylococcus aureus as the challenge organism. The use of S. aureus is based on its clinical relevance as a leading cause of nosocomial infections.

This test method has been designed to introduce a bacterial aerosol challenge to the test specimens at a flow rate of 28.3 L/mm. (1 ft3 /min). This flow rate is within the range of normal respiration and within the limitations of the cascade impactor. Unless otherwise specified, the testing shall be performed with the inside of the medical face mask in contact with the bacterial challenge.

Testing may be performed with the aerosol challenge directed through either the face side or liner side of the test specimen, thereby, allowing evaluation of filtration efficiencies which relate to both patient-generated aerosols and wearer-generated aerosols.

Degradation by physical, chemical, and thermal stresses could negatively impact the performance of the medical face mask material. The integrity of the material can also be compromised during use by such effects as flexing and abrasion, or by wetting with contaminants such as alcohol and perspiration. Testing without these stresses could lead to a false sense of security. If these conditions are of concern, evaluate the performance of the medical face mask material for bacterial filtration efficiency following an appropriate pre-treatment technique representative of the expected conditions of use.

Consider preconditioning to assess the impact of storage conditions and shelf life for disposable products, and the effects of laundering and sterilization for reusable products. If this procedure is used for quality control, perform proper statistical design and analysis of larger data sets. This type of analysis includes, but is not limited to, the number of individual specimens tested, the average per cent bacterial filtration efficiency, and standard deviation.

Data reported in this way help to establish confidence limits concerning product performance. Examples of acceptable sampling plans are found in references such as ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and ISO 2859-1.

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Scope of Tests

This test method is used to measure the bacterial filtration efficiency (BFE) of medical face mask materials, employing a ratio of the upstream bacterial challenge to downstream residual concentration to determine filtration efficiency of medical face mask materials.

This test method is a quantitative method that allows filtration efficiency for medical face mask materials to be determined. The maximum filtration efficiency that can be determined by this method is 99.9 %.

This test method does not apply to all forms or conditions of biological aerosol exposure. Users of the test method should review modes for worker exposure and assess the appropriateness of the method for their specific applications.

This test method evaluates medical face mask materials as an item of protective clothing but does not evaluate materials for regulatory approval as respirators. If respiratory protection for the wearer is needed, a NIOSH-certified respirator should be used.

Relatively high bacterial filtration efficiency measurements for a particular medical face mask material does not ensure that the wearer will be protected from biological aerosols since this test method primarily evaluates the performance of the composite materials used in the construction of the medical face mask and not its design, fit, or facial-sealing properties. The values stated in SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard.

The values stated in each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each system shall be used independently of the other. Combining values from the two systems may result in non-conformance of the standard. This test method does not address the breathability of the medical face mask materials or any other properties affecting the ease of breathing through the medical face mask material.

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This test method may also be used to measure the bacterial filtration efficiency (BFE) of other porous medical products such as surgical gowns, surgical drapes, and sterile barrier systems.

This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.

This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

There are some other methods which are also useful for combating COVID – 19 viruses for medical professionals. This may be either in the form of medical gowns or other protective textiles useful for doctors, nurses and other staff members associated with the profession. For more knitwear knowledge, please pay attention to the knitting fair.

Source: textiles school

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Cotton is one of the most popular fabrics in the world, but the difference between organically grown cotton and non-organic one is crucial. To make your clothes last longer you must be aware of its peculiarities.Probably, you’ve come across a tag ‘100% organic cotton’ on clothes of popular brands recently while going shopping. Indeed, eco-friendly fashion is on the rise. However, knitting fair thinks it’s not only about your style, but also your comfort and health.

What’s the Difference between Organic and Non-organic Cotton

Organic cotton is cotton that is produced without causing any harm to the environment. Unlike organic cotton, non-organic one is grown with large amounts of insecticides (used to kill insects), pesticides (used to kill pests) and herbicides (used to control weeds). It has not been proven that all of these chemicals affect people who wear cotton, but cotton plantation workers become victims of pesticides every year, and many of them die.

The total amount of eco-cotton is less than 1% of the total production, but it is constantly increasing. To stimulate growth, only organic fertilizers are used that are manure and compost. For growing organic cotton, a mixture of garlic, chili pepper, and soap is used. There are no genetically modified seeds as well. Instead, energy-saving technologies, such as solar panels, are used.

Moreover, farmers rotate crops. If different cultures grow in the same area, the soil regenerates naturally. For the production of non-organic cotton, the same area is constantly used, which leads to the depletion of humus. As a result, chemical fertilizers are used.

Besides, organic cotton is hand-harvested, so only fully ripened seeds are selected. After the harvest, the fibers are separated from the seeds and processed separately, which ultimately leads to an improvement in the quality of the cotton fabric.

By contrast, non-organic cotton is machine-harvested that negatively affects the quality of raw materials. In this way defoliants make the cotton heads fall off the branches themselves, and it doesn’t matter whether they ripened or not. Furthermore, manufacturing clothes made from organic cotton involves the usage of toxic dyes, chlorine bleaches, and formaldehydes, which can harm our health.

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Properties of Organic Cotton

According to cotton producers, organic cotton is superior to cotton both in terms of its effect on human health (non-organic cotton can provoke allergy) and in terms of practical use:

Organic cotton is wear-resistant. So, it can be repeatedly washed, ironed, bent, and stretched;

It is more breathable than non-organic cotton;

It’s hardy when heated, so it can be washed at a temperature of 95 °C or steamed at temperatures above 150 °C (therefore, it is widely used for the production of sterile medical devices);

It absorbs moisture up to 20% of its weight while maintaining a feeling of dryness;

It’s very soft that is essential for people with sensitive skin.

Washing Organic Cotton

Looking after the clothes made from organic cotton may seem to be a piece of cake. In fact, it’s like looking after a child. It takes a lot of care and attention. Luckily, there is a wide range of devices and apps, like child locator app, that makes parents’ life easier. Concerning caring for organic cotton, there are also some tips that can make your clothes last longer without extra effort.

The main disadvantage of organic cotton is shrinking after washing because such fabric doesn’t contain chemicals for sustainability. Wash such clothes by hand or put the washing machine on a delicate cycle at a temperature of 30-40 degrees. Low spin speed is preferable. And take into account that the clothes made from organic cotton shrink at 5% after the first washing.

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To preserve the unique qualities of organic cotton, it is advisable to wash them with bio-friendly products. Detergents contain harmful chemicals like surfactants, synthetic fragrances, phosphates, and others. They negatively affect the fibers of bio-cotton, destroying their unique properties. Also, these chemicals can cause allergic reactions.

If you have stains on clothes, wash them with natural bio-soap and soak for at least two hours in cold water. After that, wash things in the washing machine or by hands. For the first wash, add ¼ cup of vinegar to the final rinse, this will help set the color and resist fading.

Drying Organic Cotton Items

Try to dry such clothes outdoors, as this method doesn’t weaken the fibers and reduces wrinkles. However, avoid placing them directly in the sunlight, because it can make your clothes fade.

Ironing Organic Cotton Fabric

It’s important to understand that organic cotton isn’t treated with anti-wrinkle chemicals, so it creases easily. Better iron such fabric when it is still wet, or use steam ironing.

After all, buying organic cotton, you care not only about yourself but also about the environment. Always follow the instructions on the label, and your clothes will last as long as possible. For more knitwear knowledge, please pay attention to the knitting fair.

Source: textiles school

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