In today’s garment business environment of global competition, reduction of the total cost of quality strengthens one’s competitive position by focusing on the drivers of different key components of nonconformance.
Cost of Quality in the garment industry is still a widely understood misconception. The term often gets associated incorrectly with the price of creating quality merchandise. Actually, it is the other way round i.e. the amount of money incurred because the product was not manufactured right at the first time.
Thus, the concept of quality costs in the garment industry is a means to quantify the total cost involved in quality-related efforts and deficiencies pertains to a manufactured garment product.
Most of the garment units do not know what their quality costs. A large portion of resources is consumed in finding and correcting mistakes in the merchandise or related processes. Typically, the cost to eliminate failure in the customer phase is five times greater than it is at the merchandise development or manufacturing phase. Every time work is redone, the cost of quality increases. The obvious examples in the garment sector include:
The reworking of a garment
The retesting of performance of apparel
The rebuilding of a garment machine
The correction of a garment size specification sheet or change of care label
The reprocessing of the garment to improve dimensional stability after a wash or the replacement of trim to fulfill the requirement of a customer or to meet safety issues.
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The cost of poor quality affects internal and external costs resulting from failure to meet the requirements specified for an apparel product by the garment industry.
On the other hand, the cost of good quality affects the cost of investing in the prevention of nonconformance to requirements and the costs for appraising the garment product for conformance to requirements. Thus, the cost of quality concept leads to the following classification for a better understanding of the situation in the garment sector.
How to classify Quality Cost in Garment Industry?
However, no standard relationship exists among the four parameters of quality costs. One can expect to reduce the internal and external failure costs by increasing prevention and appraisal costs. But it is also well understood that, in spite of the excellent quality of raw materials and good inspection coverage, the quality of a garment also depends on workmanship, which may be a prime factor of hindrance in the attainment of quality owing to poor training, poor maintenance of machines, and lack of requisite skill.
What is Prevention Cost?
Prevention Costs:
The costs of all activities specifically designed to prevent poor quality in a garment product or associated processes.
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Internal Failure Costs:
Failure costs that arise before a garment company supplies its product to the customer i.e. prior to delivery or shipment of the merchandise. These are due to deficiencies discovered before delivery and are associated with the failure (non-conformance) to meet the needs of customers. If internal quality failures of defective merchandise are identified before shipping then optimistically there may be no external failure costs.
xternal Failure Costs:
These are typically due to errors found by customers. Failure costs that arise after a garment unit supply the product to the customer, such as cost of returned merchandise, cost of quality claims, cost of transportation for the defective merchandise, personnel costs associated with these activities. These costs can be much higher than internal failure costs because the stakes are much higher.
owever, many of the costs of quality are hidden in the garment sector and difficult to identify by formal measurement systems.
A typical iceberg model can be used to illustrate this matter. Only a minority of the costs of quality appears above the surface of the water. But there is a huge potential for reducing costs under the water. Identifying and improving these costs may significantly reduce the costs of doing the garment business.
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Concluding Remarks
A proper understanding of the cost of quality is vital for any organization to develop quality conformance as a useful strategic business tool that improves its product performance and the brand image. This is important in achieving the objectives of a successful organization and guides to identify improvement opportunities.
In today’s garment business environment of global competition, reduction of the total cost of quality strengthens one’s competitive position by focusing on the drivers of different key components of nonconformance. This facilitates survival and further growth of a garment company.
Undoubtedly, the reduction of cost of non-conformance in different unit operations is much more preferable in this sector to increase the volume of sales turnover, especially in a competitive market or in an environment of recession.For more knitwear knowledge, please pay attention to the knitting fair.
Source: textiles school
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Pressures in the apparel industry are complex, multidimensional, and not easy to classify. However, based on the review of experiences shared by the peers in the industry, knitting fair are classified into four categories and discussed in the paper.
Market pressure
In the apparel industry, fashions change at lightning speed, and new trends and consumer preferences emerge at the blink of an eye – today, even more than in the past. Apparel brand-owners are under pressure to formulate winning strategies to achieve a competitive price. They are in expectation to get their products from the design centre to the store faster than ever, and retailers must stock and sell those products immediately while consumer interest is at its highest – and before the next selling season begins.
Gross margins on apparel have dropped significantly in the past two years as a result of the global economic turmoil, as retailers have slashed prices to move merchandise. This has put renewed pressure on retailers to be more efficient with their labour allocation in order to recoup a few percentage points of margin lost by price-cutting.
When a product is out of stock and a customer comes in, that customer is highly likely to shop for the product in another store… perhaps unlikely to return again in the future to the original store for that product. It also means that the customer doesn’t buy additional apparel products and accessories, robbing the retailer of important add-on sales and profits. This is more critical than ever to apparel retailers since many have adopted defensive-inventory practices designed to keep only as much inventory in the store as is absolutely needed to avoid overstocks and markdown. This has put significant pressure on retailers to enhance supply chain efficiency by having real time visibility to merchandise levels in their stores and at distribution centres.
At a fundamental level, retailers are in business pressure to sell products that their customers want to buy, and they need to do everything possible to maximize sales. Having the right mix of products, maintaining adequate shelf availability, and keeping prices competitive are all key factors to their long-term success.
With an increased level of competition from low-cost manufacturers around the world, the apparel industry is under tremendous pressure to increase productivity, to improve performance, to improve production quality, and to advance the management systems.
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Technological pressure
Though the main considerations in the business pressure on apparel particularly in sourcing and manufacturing decisions are lower costs, high productivity, and better quality, however, faced with increasing labour costs, advanced technologies for garment manufacturing processes have been called upon to increase productivity and produce better quality goods, in high volume, in short time cycles, at lower costs. Thus, advanced technologies and conduciveness facing new challenges driven by the intense competition is critical for garment manufacturers to remain competitive and grow. Constant innovation and adoption of new technology become an essential element for competitive advantage in the global market because manufacturing units can maintain quick and flexible responses to market demand using the technologies.
Recent technological pressure in clothing manufacturing includes the development of robotics for the automation assembly line for garment making; high-speed sewing machines; new pressing and fusing techniques; computer-aided design; computer-aided manufacturing; and computer-aided marketing. These technologies can be used individually or in combination with other technologies to achieve the desired economies. Business pressure on top management is the commitment to technology which positively influences the technology adoption of the apparel industry.
Environmental pressure
Challenges and importance of a sustainable planet have been gained momentum to live a greener lifestyle. Apparel business has also felt the touch of it. At the garment production, the main pressure on the environment is the cutting losses, package materials and the use of accessories, such as buttons and zippers, which can contain heavy metals. Prevention of cutting losses by smart design and process control includes environmental savings of all chemicals used in processes such as sizing, de-sizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerisation, washing, dyeing, printing and finishing. A large amount of water is being used in such processing. When the clothes are used the chemicals can turn up in the water during washing or when clothes are dried after disposal of those chemicals will be released as well thereby creating pollution pressure on the environment.
Social and legal pressure
Brand companies and retailers, especially multinational corporations, have become aware of the concerns of consumers and NGOs and aware that they can contribute to sustainable development as well. As a response to the international attention about Corporate Social Responsibility issues and consumer pressure, brands such as Nike, Adidas, Reebok, Levi’s, Gap and others developed codes of conduct designed to ensure that suppliers in which they had only a contractual relationship to produce goods complied with a basic standard of workplace practices. Many textiles production companies in Asia, Latin America and East and South Europe experience this and feel sandwiched between tight production orders and a diversity of different codes and standards on Corporate Social Responsibility to comply with. Emerging pressures of NGOs, trade unions and western consumers to make multinational buyers ensure basic human rights in supply factories and also there is a demand for adequate health and safety measures in those units. Pressures from multinational buying companies to change factory working conditions and social codes of conduct introduced by different buyers have become mandatory, with non-compliance resulting in the cancellation of orders. Growing awareness of workers’ collaboration with NGOs, worldwide activist campaign for workers’ rights in developing countries, and heightened media coverage are also responsible to encourage more pressures on apparel business in social and legal front.
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Conclusion
In knitting fair,the branded apparel industry is at a crossroads to face pressure from various corners. There are several new challenges and understanding the dynamics is important for the branded apparel industry to change and adapt, or otherwise lose relevance. Several leading companies have already begun to reshape the blueprint for success by implementing leading edge supply chain capabilities combined with a holistic business process that dramatically reduces cycle times, increases visibility across the entire value chain, enables quick response to changes at retail, and ultimately delivers satisfaction to the consumer, in the form of the right product, at the right place and time, at the right price, and in the right size and color. But overall industry success and survival depends on each branded manufacturer’s ability to radically change how business is done withstanding pressures from the market, technology, environment and social and legal standards.
Source: textiles school
#??#A multilayer fabric with woven layers consists of a number of woven layers stacked on top of each other and held together with connection yarns in the third dimension (Z-direction). This article Knitting fair introduces to you.
Technical textiles are the fastest growing sector in the textile industry. Therefore, it is highly essential to develop all techniques and types of equipment in order to decrease the production time especially with the use of electronically equipped modern looms and communicated with computers.
The automatization of woven design is one of the ways to facilitate the work and to increase the production, especially in the conventional weaving of complex structure, due to the time consuming and difficulties involved in the manual design (e.g., the combination of weaves, seeking of stitches and introducing it, generating of lifting plan, doing cross-sections, etc. However, a number of CAD/CAM fabric woven structures with complicated weaves have been developed and represented in the form of 2D and 3D matrices.
Some of these researches depended on mathematical functions to describe and generate automatically the 2D and 3D weaves. In other words, the algorithm of the Kronecker Product was applied to describe weaves. In addition, other CAD/CAM software’s that deal with geometric modeling of woven structures have been developed to visualize the fabric appearance before weaving (Liao & Adanur, 1998; Lomov, Perie, Ivanov, Verpoest, & Marsal, 2011; Smith & Chen, 2009). However, they do not discuss all the problems due to the wide variety of weaves and stitching ways.
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Definition Multilayer fabrics
A multilayer fabric consists of several layers woven above each other with a maximum of 12 woven layers or 22 warp yarn layers and 23 weft yarn layers (unidirectional layers). The connection can be realized by connection yarns in the third dimension or by interlocking. As a result, the delamination resistance of the fabric increases and the manual labor of stacking different layers on top of each other could be decreased. All types of yarns can be used and combined. This combination could be different layers with different types of yarns but also in one-layer different types of yarns can be used.
A multilayer fabric with woven layers consists of a number of woven layers stacked on top of each other and held together with connection yarns in the third dimension (Z-direction). The geometry of the woven layers can be customized.
3D Weaving
The term 3D weaving is commonly used in reference to the weaving of cloths that have pre-designed three-dimensional shapes (multilayer fabrics) or can be directly manipulated by interlocking and non-interlocking methods into a 3D shape immediately after being woven. It is also used to describe the weaving of fabrics with substantial thicknesses, many times greater than the diameters of the yarns used to produce the fabrics.
3D Shape Weaving
Conventional projectile/rapier-dobby/ Jacquard looms can be used to produce certain three-dimensional shapes by weaving multiple layers of fabric interlinked to each other, similar to a ‘double cloth, treble cloth ‘formation, so that after being woven the layers of 2D fabric can be manipulated into the required 3D shape; for example, a dobby/jacquard loom can be used to produce the cellular structures. For obvious reasons, this method is also termed multilayer weaving.
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It is highly essential to have knowledge and understanding of double/treble cloths which are basic for the formation of multilayer fabric
Double cloths structures—The simplest structure of double cloth is composed of two series of warp threads and two series of weft threads. One series of each kind forming an upper or face fabric, and the other, an under or back fabric. It is necessary for the face picks, to be arranged in definite order with the backing picks, and the face ends with the back ends
Treble cloths structure—In treble cloths there are three series of warp and weft threads which form three distinct fabrics one above the other. Except for the forties, when a face pick is inserted all the center and back ends are left down; when a center pick is inserted all the face ends are raised, and all the backing ends are left down, while a backing pick is inserted all the face and central ends are raised.
For more knitwear knowledge, please pay attention to the knitting fair.
Source: textiles school
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