As far as Knitting fair knows, Naia Renew fibre is said to be traceable with certified biodegradability that captures the value of hard-to-recycle materials that would otherwise be destined for landfill.
Eastman, the producer of sustainably sourced Naiaä cellulosic fibre, has introduced its new Naia Renew portfolio, sourced from 60% wood pulp and 40% recycled waste plastics. Naia Renew cellulosic fibre is said to be traceable with certified biodegradability that captures the value of hard-to-recycle materials that would otherwise be destined for landfills. It can be produced at scale to deliver sustainability without compromise to the fashion world, Eastman reports.
Naia™ is sourced from sustainably managed pine and eucalyptus forests and plantations. Eastman's entire forestry supply chain adopts FSC® Forest Stewardship Council® procurement standards, including controlled wood procurement procedures.Eastman and its wood pulp suppliers hold FSC® Forest Stewardship Council® (C140711) and/or PEFC™ Forest Certification System Recognition Scheme™ Chain of Custody certification. In addition, Eastman also cooperates with the non-profit environmental protection organization Canopy to show long-term support for sustainable forest management.
Naia™ cellulose fiber adopts a safe closed-loop production process, and the solvent used in the process is recycled into the system and recycled. Reduce the environmental impact by optimizing the production process. From trees to fibers, Naia™ has only a very low environmental footprint, and the third-party certified life cycle assessment results meet the ISO 14044 standard. Naia™ is biodegradable in freshwater and soil environments, and compostable in industrial environments, and has obtained the "OK biodegradable" and "OK compostable" certifications awarded by TÜV AUSTRIA. Recently, Naia™ staple fiber obtained the “OK compostable” certification for the home environment.
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“Naia Renew enables a circular economy for the fashion industry and helps brands meet their eco-conscious goals,” said Ruth Farrell, global marketing director of textiles for Eastman. “We’re transforming what a fabric can be and do to meet the sustainability demands of our customers and to create a world where brands and consumers can be in fashion without compromising on quality and performance.”
Available as both a filament yarn and a staple fibre, Naia Renew offers clear advantages over other materials, Eastman adds. Naia Renew filament features a silky hand, rich lustre and fluid drape and is used to create fashionable womenswear garments, while Naia Renew staple fibre is inherently soft and quick drying, with reduced pilling properties, making it ideal for everyday casual wear.
According to Eastman, fully circular, Naia Renew is produced with a low carbon footprint in a closed-loop process where solvents are safely recycled back into the system for reuse. The fibre is made from wood pulp sourced from certified forests, and the recycled plastics feedstock is generated via Eastman’s patented carbon renewal technology (CRT). CRT is an integrated, molecular recycling technology that breaks down waste plastics, such as post- consumer carpet fibre and plastic packaging materials into basic molecular building blocks for the manufacture of new products including fibres. Eastman says it is a truly circular solution creating value from waste.
Naia is actively collaborating across the value chain for Naiaä Renew and will have announcements regarding brand partnerships soon.
“Our vision is to make sustainable fashion accessible for everyone,” Farrell added. “We all need to play our parts to help fix the future and work together to protect our planet’s precious resources for the next generations. With Naia Renew, you can take an active role in conserving resources and fostering innovation, while demonstrating a passion for sustainability that resonates with consumers worldwide.”
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Founded in 1920, Eastman is a global specialty materials company that produces a broad range of products found in items people use every day. With the purpose of enhancing the quality of life in a material way, Eastman works with customers to deliver innovative products and solutions while maintaining a commitment to safety and sustainability.
The company’s innovation-driven growth model takes advantage of world-class technology platforms, deep customer engagement, and differentiated application development to grow its leading positions in attractive end markets such as transportation, building and construction, and consumables. As a globally inclusive and diverse company, Eastman employs approximately 14,500 people around the world and serves customers in more than 100 countries. The company had 2019 revenues of approximately $9.3 billion and is headquartered in Kingsport, Tennessee, USA.
Source: Knitting Industry
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Knitting fair according to reports, Israeli nylon manufacturer Nilit has recently developed a new type of antibacterial fiber Sensil BodyFresh, which can provide athletes and outdoor athletes with excellent odor suppression, durability and smooth comfort. The yarn is said to inhibit the growth of bacteria like Staphylococcus, St. Hominis, Micrococcus and Coryneforme bacteria, which can cause the human body to emit some unpleasant odors and discomfort.
Although the fine denier fiber can bring a smooth feel, it still has good wear resistance, and it can resist various harsh conditions. The antibacterial additives are in the polymer instead of coating, so the garment can withstand more than 20 washings and still maintain antibacterial properties.
Sensil BodyFresh yarn currently has various denier specifications and can be widely used in outdoor clothing and sportswear, with very good appearance and feel.
The additive embedded in Sensil BodyFresh yarn is said to provide long-lasting protection that does not deteriorate with laundering, indicating that the additive is not washed.
Nilit, a global leader in sustainable, premium Nylon 6.6 for apparel, reports it has received confirmation from Microbe Investigations AG (MIS), a microbiological testing services lab, that fabric made with Sensil BodyFresh demonstrated a 99.85% reduction in viral activity when tested according to ISO 18184:2019 criteria against Betacoronavirus 1 (OC43), an enveloped, positive-sense, single-stranded RNA virus. The additive embedded in the Sensil BodyFresh yarn is said to provide long-lasting protection that does not deteriorate with laundering, indicating that the additive is not washed out of the fabric.
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“We originally developed Sensil BodyFresh with antibacterial and anti-odour properties to provide consumers with outstanding freshness,” says Sagee Aran, Head of Global Marketing at Nilit. “With these proven antiviral test results, our business partners can expand their Sensil BodyFresh product concepts beyond comfort and aesthetics to include enhanced protection and a positive sense of well-being.”
Sensil BodyFresh is currently used by leading apparel brands across all segments such as intimates and underwear, base layer, activewear, and legwear. By inhibiting microbial growth, fabrics stay fresher longer and require fewer launderings, Nilit explains. The benefits are built into the yarn and do not wash out or wear off for the life of the fabric, providing sustainable protection that doesn’t pollute waterways, the company adds. In addition to providing these proven antimicrobial benefits, Sensil BodyFresh is, Nilit says, responsibly made at its water and energy optimized facilities and meets Nilit’s Total Product Sustainability guidelines for long-lasting, high quality products made with respect for the planet and people.
“Consumers today appreciate long lasting, environmentally responsible, multifunctional apparel,” continues Aran. “Sensil BodyFresh offers numerous performance factors that include sustainability and well-being attributes for today’s current climate.”
Nilit says it has a broad portfolio of sustainable Sensil premium Nylon products that address water preservation, energy use reduction, pollution elimination, biodegradability, and increased use of recycled inputs. Nilit is committed to providing the industry leadership and the products that help the apparel world use more sustainable fabrics in more responsible ways, the company concludes.
“Manmade fibres are durable, versatile and cost-effective. That’s why they have become indispensable in yarn production over the past decade and now account for more than 40% of staple fibre consumption,” says textile machinery manufacturer Truetzschler. Accordingly, the German company has supported this trend by developing highly specialized machines for manmade fibres that meet constantly rising expectations for quality and efficiency – and its TC 19i is now winning over customers worldwide, Truetzschler says.
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The intelligent card TC 19i for manmade fibres was launched in 2019 and is now the international benchmark for manmade fibre processing. The results from major textile markets across Asia, Europe and the Middle East speak for themselves: customers were able to increase productivity by between 20% and 100%, while also improving quality (IPI) by between 20% and 55%, adds Truetzschler.
Its processes include ring, compact, air jet, open end, core spun and siro spun technologies. Experts at Acarsoy Tekstil were initially sceptical when Truetzschler TC 19i cards were installed in the second air jet line for 100% viscose yarn (Ne 20 to 28). General manager Bülent Değirmencioğlu, as well as his team of operations and maintenance managers, were unsure whether the required level of quality could be maintained when the TC 19i operated at such high speed. However, they were able to produce 60% faster with the TC 19i, and clearer cut numbers were 50% lower than the first line. In light of these impressive results, Acarsoy is now considering modernizing its other machines too.
Source: Sensil BodyFresh Website
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International fashion trends for Autumn/Winter 2021/22 and Spring/Summer 2022 were harder to decipher in this COVID-restricted year. The situation led to concerted efforts to adopt developing technology at speed, so that digital Knitting fairs could be established, and real business initiated. Various methods were devised by different organisations, Pitti Immagine, Milano Unica, Premiere Vision and Filo Milan. Some hybrid, some purely digital, staying live for months.
Eco themes
Eco-responsible manufacturing is strong, a positive optional choice, the usp of the European industry. It forms part of the communications of most brands. Evidence of continuing faith in its prime importance despite 2020 pandemic setbacks, includes statements from industry bodies and numerous online examples of sustainability initiatives from designers and producers in all sectors. The words luxury and sustainable move in tandem for 2021.
Soft touch
Strong emphasis on softness and comfort was present especially in yarns, Both Pitti Filati and Filo spoke of thicker, substantial yarns with very little weight, looking rustic but feeling surprisingly soft. Soft Merino, alpaca, cashmere often mixed with synthetics for decoration or extra strength, for knitting and weaving.
Deliberate imperfections
Inspired by the look of ‘peat bogs, marbling, tearing, spilling’ and the disrupting of classic expected patterns, also described as Meticulously Damaged and Fanciful Corrosions; roughing-up of surfaces, textures, menacing prints of diabolic tendrils and roots moving across fabric, Gothic fancy yarns and lace, fabrics decorated with yarn, metallics and passementerie. Embroidery and decoration is back, but lighter and more fanciful.
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Performance
The importance of functionality and solidity can be found in robust indigo yarns, cotton, linen, hemp, wool, with recognizable visuals relating to workwear. Woven fabrics derived from utilitarian materialism used for revised working conditions.
Techno knits adopted for streetwear. Traditional weaves interpreted with disrupted geometrics, and dense, functional outerwear conceived with weave and knit side by side. Knitwear and woven fabrics are almost Interchangeable in colour and pattern, used to break up traditional designs like Prince of Wales or herringbones, changing their contours in the different media. Forward-looking Knitwear expressing new looks: puffed up knits as though filled with air, light yarns and weightless jumpers for Summer 2022.
Going forward, I think all shades of red from dark to light will be strong for both men’s and women’s. Black of course is going to make a huge comeback.
At Pitti Uomo, laid-back pre-worn jumpers aimed for eccentric shapes, with stretched knits reassembled for jackets. Milled yarns and brushed fabrics knitted for heft and warmth, soft colours, like green and blue mohair and wool for coats.
Colours, shine and glitter
The New Black tipped by all the important trend maker goes from Pitti Immagine through Milano Unica to Premiere Vision for a ‘seamless fusion of style codes’ in archival silhouettes and new fabrics.
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Yarns 2022 veered between natural shades of animal and plant fibres and an explosion of bright colour. texture and floral brightness, and PV’s chosen red as a star colour comes through strongly. Shine does not diminish; Filo saw blends like linen/viscose/polyester/ lamé. Darker green/grey, intersected with bright blue and accents dominate shade cards, meeting metallics and dark ecclesiastical looks at Pitti Filati’s Ray of Light.
More dramatic hues involve gradual brightening like brown into chestnut and ginger, for recoloured checked menswear. Undyed looks exploit natural fibres, but with glitter and synthetics too, breaking the rules and gradually turning up the heat.
Textile Consultant and international colour expert Beryl Gibson said: “Going forward, I think all shades of red from dark to light will be strong for both men’s and women’s. Black of course is going to make a huge comeback.“
Localisation and certification
The importance of identity ran through the shows. Identified materials and location provided prestige; British wool breeds, Shetland, Merino, Escorial, Peruvian alpaca, Lochcarron of Scotland at PV, Begg & Co at Pitti Uomo.
Italian icons like Cariaggi cashmere, Zegna Baruffa Cashwool, Como silk. Fashion’s role in Italy provided momentum for shows to go on, supporting disparate Italian companies serving iconic brands, tailoring, edgy streetwear and Yarns for knitwear, weaving and industry.
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Fashion segues into the next seasons
In part due to the particular circumstances of the year, fashion is moving more gently through the seasons; ecological concerns of reducing waste and building on existing success rather than abruptly changing colours, fibres, fabrics and clothing has been helpful, pioneered by trend experts, and mentioned in all markets, as more in tune today’s sensibilities.
As 2020 has progressed change has happened. Manufacturers reported buyers were playing safe at first, tending to order repeats of previous purchases, buying from stock. The digital shows have revealed a wealth of design, artisanal craft, quality, innovation and new ways of commerce being developed. Movers in industry were desperate to keep momentum going during 2020. The huge effort to switch direction and harness new technology has undoubtedly helped in a difficult trading year, the experience making ready for further challenges.
Source: Knitting Industry
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