Cotton Council International joins Sustainable Apparel Coalition

According to knitting fair, Cotton Council International (CCI) has joined the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) and will use the group’s sustainability measurement suite of tools, the Higg Index, to drive environmental and social responsibility throughout its supply chain.

Cotton Council International (CCI) has joined the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) and will use the group’s sustainability measurement suite of tools, the Higg Index, to drive environmental and social responsibility throughout its supply chain.

With its membership in the SAC, CCI joins more than 250 global brands, retailers, and manufacturers, as well as government, non-profit environmental organizations, and academic institutions, which are collectively committed to improving supply chain sustainability in the apparel, footwear, and textile industry.

The US cotton industry is committed to continual improvement in sustainability and continues to build upon the strong environmental gains already achieved over the past 35 years.

“We are pleased to be joining the SAC, confident that together we can scale positive impact on product sustainability over time,” said Steph Thiers-Ratcliffe, CCI Director of European Brands and Retailers. “With shared ambition in providing robust environmental data to the sector, we will collaborate to enable greater supply chain transparency and informed decision making.”

In its relationship with the SAC, CCI will contribute both data and resources to support the Higg Index, which measures sustainability performance and drives supply chain transparency and decision-making to improve efficiency and sustainability impact. The Higg Index is an indicator-based suite of tools that enables suppliers, manufacturers, brands, and retailers to evaluate materials, products, facilities, and processes based on environmental performance, social labour practices, and product design choices.

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“We welcome the addition of CCI to the Sustainable Apparel Coalition and look forward to its participation in this industry-wide effort in sustainability,” SAC Executive Director Amina Razvi said. “Having CCI as part of the Coalition widens the scope of our impact within the industry and accelerates the change, we’re making towards responsible industry actions.”

Trust Protocol will join BCI, CmiA, Fairtrade Cotton, Organic Cotton and Recycled Cotton as a preferred cotton fibre.

The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol has been added to Textile Exchange’s list of preferred fibres and materials. The Trust Protocol will now be one of 36 fibres and materials that over 170 participating brands and retailers can select from as part of Textile Exchange’s Material Change Index program.

Textile Exchange defines a preferred fibre or material as one which results in improved environmental and/or social sustainability outcomes and impacts in comparison to conventional production. The Trust Protocol will join a portfolio of more sustainable cotton production initiatives including the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), Cotton Made in Africa (CmiA), Fairtrade Cotton, Organic Cotton, REEL, ISCC, and Recycled Cotton as a preferred cotton fibre.

The master list of preferred fibres and materials evolves over time as sustainability innovations prove themselves. Textile Exchange consults widely with its members and NGO partners to ensure the categories are always reflective of the latest thinking.

“We are pleased to see the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol recognized on Textile Exchange’s list of preferred fibres and materials,” said Ken Burton, executive director of the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol. “The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is an industry-wide system that will guide U.S. cotton growers to continuously improve and reduce their environmental footprint. We will provide brands and retailers with aggregate data that track the efforts of U.S. cotton growers to improve water and soil conservation and reduce greenhouse gases. These data will support the fashion and retail industries in their efforts to demonstrate progress toward sustainability goals.”

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Textile Exchange encourages companies to accelerate their use of preferred fibres and acknowledges and honours companies that recognize the importance of integrating a preferred fibre and materials strategy into their business practices.

“At Textile Exchange, our mission is to inspire and equip people to accelerate sustainable practices in the textile value chain,” said La Rhea Pepper, Managing Director of Textile Exchange. “We’re pleased to add Trust Protocol cotton to our list of preferred fibre and materials, which will give brands and retailers another option to source sustainable cotton as they integrate preferred fibers into their business strategy.”

Source: Knitting Industry

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In the knitting exhibition, breathable fabrics have always been very popular, whether natural or chemical materials need to consider the issue of breathability.

The ease or otherwise of the passage of air is of importance for a number of fabrics end uses such as industrial filters, tents, sailcloth’s, parachutes, bulletproof, windproof, raincoat materials, shirting’s, down proof fabrics and airbags.

Fabric air permeability is a measure to what extent it gives air passing through the fabric. Air permeability, a given area in the vertical direction of the air flow rate, a given time period, as measured by the fabric test area inside the pressure difference of the fabric. Basically, it depends on weight, thickness and porosity of fabric. The porosity of fabric is the demonstration of the air gap as a percentage within the fabric. It has been important for especially the tent fabric and parachute.

The reciprocal of air permeability, air resistance, can be defined as the time in seconds for ImI of air to pass through 100s mm2 of fabric under a pressure head of 10mm of water. The advantage of using air resistance instead of air permeability to characterize a fabric is that in an assembly of a number of fabrics, the total air resistance is then the sum of the individual air resistance.

Fabrics, are porous materials which allow the transmission of energy and substances and are therefore interesting materials for different applications. In general, they are used for clothing, interior and wide range of technical applications

Garments must be characterized by good air circulation between the skin surface and the environment, good ventilation at skin level and the possibility of eliminating the excess humidity generated through perspiration.

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Air permeability Definition

The air permeability of woven fabrics is important because it influences the comfort properties of the final product – garments. The air permeability can be controlled during the design stage through: the characteristics of the raw material (the type of fibres and blend ratio), the geometric characteristics of the yarns used, the structural parameters of the woven fabrics, the technology used to produce the fabrics and the finishing process.

Air permeability, simply a physical ability of a fabric to let certain air flow through under differential pressure between either surface, refers to the speed at which water vapour molecules transmit into the top layer. Fabrics with different surface textures on either side can have a different air permeability depending upon the direction of air flow. Air permeability and fabric porous structure are correlated and indicate the breathability which makes great differences in the performance of materials. That is to say, air permeability and porous fabric structure affect how breathable a garment is; besides, air permeability can be measured, whereas breathability is more subjective.

In the British Standard test, the airflow through a given area of fabric is measured at a constant pressure drop across the fabric of 10mm head of water. The specimen is clamped over the air inlet of the apparatus with the use of rubber gaskets and the air is sucked through it by means of a pump as shown in Fig.A. The air valve is adjusted to give a pressure drop across the fabric of 10mm head of water and the air flow is then measured using a flow meter.

Five specimens are used each with a test area of 508mm2 (25.4mm diameter) and the mean air flow in ml per second is calculated from the five results. From this, the air permeability can be calculated in ml per 100mm2 per second.

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To obtain accurate results in the test, edge leakage around the specimen has to be prevented by using a guard ring or similar device (for example, efficient clamping). The pressure drop across the guard ring is measured by a separate pressure gauge. Air that is drawn through the guard ring does not pass through the flowmeter. The pressure drops across the guard ring and test area are equalized in order that no air can pass either way through the edge of the specimen. A guard ring of three times the size of the test area is considered sufficient.

Classification of fabrics: based on fabric type there are four types of fabrics

Woven fabric: this has been defined as the interlacing/ interlacement of warp and weft yarns where minimum two sets of yarns are needed and warp yarn stay in vertical and parallel to the selvedges.

Knitted fabrics: This has been defined as the interloping/interlocking/ intermeshing of warp yarn where minimum one set of yarn is needed.

Non-Woven fabrics: this has been defined as the mechanical/chemical/thermal bonding to make non-woven fabrics.

Braided fabrics: this is defined as the intertwining/diagonal/interlacement to make braided fabric where minimum three sets of yarns are needed

Factors that Affect Air Permeability/Fabric porous structure of textile fabrics

Correlation between porosity and air permeability of fabric is very complicated because changes of the textile structure (by the influence of the venting system), can be possibly classified as a horizontal increase in porosity. A correlation relationship has been elaborated between the percentage of open porosity for double layer fabrics and air permeability, considering the use of the different system of reed denting.

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Fabric porosity is an important parameter in the assessment of clothing comfort and physical properties of technical textiles and the porosity are defined by the ratio of free space to fibre in a given volume of fabric. The porous are by voids between weft and warp yarns in the fabrics. The air passes through the pores from the surface of the fabric. Tightness factor can be used for fabric air permeability forecasting. The high correlation between the permeability to air and the tightness factor confirms that. Porosity is affected by yarn number or yarn count number. … Increasing loop length, looser the structure and so the values of air permeability increases.

Source: textiles school

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COOLMAX® EcoMade fibers and fabrics are made from recycled resources such as plastic bottles, meeting consumers' demand for clothing that can use resources more effectively. This INVISTA innovative technology is designed and crafted to reduce its impact on the environment.

In addition to the classic COOLMAX® fabric moisture absorption, sweat wicking, durability, abrasion resistance and other properties, COOLMAX® EcoMade fibers and fabrics have superior whiteness test results.

Fiber giant Invista Inc. (Invista) has launched Coolmax EcoMade technology, which helps jeans become environmentally friendly, cool and comfortable, and helps consumers change their perception of jeans.

Invista said that jeans made with Coolmax EcoMade technology are very breathable, which can keep sweat away from the skin and keep it cool, comfortable and dry. Like other Coolmax products, these products are characterized by no need for cleaning.

Another advantage of fibers made with Coolmax EcoMade technology is that 97% of the materials are recyclable materials. By reusing the glass bottles in the garbage disposal site, environmental pollution can be reduced. In 6 steps, these glasses are transformed into fibers suitable for clothing.

Jean Hegedus, Director of Invista's Global Denim Division, said: "Research shows that more and more consumers want their jeans to be cool and comfortable. Coolmax EcoMade technology jeans provide excellent performance while reducing environmental pollution. For consumers , This is a win-win choice."

Invista surveyed 1,500 men and girls from 3 countries. 75% of the participants wanted a pair of jeans that could keep cool in hot weather. Among all the brands that produce this type of jeans, consumers are most interested in Coolmax.

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Invista displayed this innovative jeans at the Knitting fair.

The Lycra Company, an innovator in the apparel industry and wool spinner Südwolle Group, have partnered to bring the ‘next level of sustainability’ and unique performance into the wool market with a ground-breaking new technology. As the first of its kind, the new GRS certified cationic dyeable Coolmax EcoMade long staple yarns can be perfectly processed with wool without compromising its unique properties, according to The Lycra Company.

Among the existing types of recycled polyester that can be blended with wool, Coolmax EcoMade technology distinguishes itself by its cationic dyeability. “This property considerably facilitates the dyeing process in piece or cone dyeing and enables a gentler dyeing process at lower temperatures using less energy. This not only helps to ensure that the touch and handle of the wool are not impacted but is also a positive development for sustainability within this market. Furthermore, generally, a cationic dye process tends to deliver better colour and colour fastness,” the company explains.

“This new Coolmax EcoMade fibre is the perfect partner to wool, combining the performance of uniquely engineered cross-sections of Coolmax fibres, offering better breathability and moisture management, with the natural attributes of wool,” explains Jim Sweeney, Business Development Director for The Lycra Company specialty polyester.

In order to highlight the new innovation’s unique qualities, as well as challenge the presumption that sustainable fibres compromise on performance, Südwolle blended the Coolmax EcoMade fibre with its Merino yarns to develop a range of sports and outdoor samples. They then invited several of their key customers on a winter sports weekend to launch the products.

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“Never judge a book by its cover, nor judge a yarn without physically testing it! The participants’ feedback was very positive. They in particular highlighted that the blend performed outstandingly well in terms of moisture management and comfort,”, comments Michel Mastio, Director for Circular Knitting and Hosiery Yarns, Südwolle Group.

Today, The Lycra Company’s advanced technologies deliver comfort and lasting performance benefits to clothing in virtually every apparel category, including ready-to-wear and denim, activewear and athleisure, lingerie and underwear, hosiery and socks, as well as swimwear.

The Lycra Company and Südwolle Group are both continuously looking at ways to improve their offerings both to address customers’ needs and for a more sustainable future and this new development highlights this commitment.The Lycra Company innovate and produce exceptional fiber and technology solutions for the global apparel and hygiene industries, as well as specialty chemicals used to create quality spandex (elastane). Our customers appreciate the value that our globally recognized brands, innovative products, technical expertise, sustainable solutions and marketing support adds to their products.

Source: Knitting Industry

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