As we all know, fabric is the source of clothing innovation, and yarn is the source of fabric innovation. The development of the knitting market and the innovation and development of yarn are closely related. At the beginning of the new year, the yarn exhibition will introduce the innovation and fashion trends of yarns, hoping to provide some inspiration for fabric design.
Clothing fabrics are different from chemical fibers and natural fibers. Chemical fiber fabrics are acrylic, nylon, polyester, viscose, etc., as mentioned before. They have the advantages of good elasticity and high moisture absorption. Natural fiber fabrics are mainly cotton, linen, wool, and silk.
Cotton fibers in natural fibers are relatively heat-resistant. For example, the ironing temperature can reach around 190 degrees, but it is best to wet before ironing, which will help the clothes to be smooth and beautiful. Another feature of cotton fiber is acid and alkali resistance, good hand feeling, easy to wash, and relatively comfortable to wear at affordable prices. Generally, underwear and baby clothes are mostly made of cotton. The public also prefers to choose fabrics in the selection of such clothes .Silk fibers are long and thin and belong to protein fibers. The advantages of silk fabrics are that they feel fine, feel soft and smooth, have a good gloss, and are bright, noble and gorgeous.
In recent years, the development and application of new yarns and fiber products have been comprehensively improved, such as elastic fibers, new functional fibers, natural fibers, etc. The development of knitted products will still use these fibers to extend. Because of the soaring international oil prices, the cost of chemical fiber products has risen at the same time. At the same time, the advancement of production technology has made products made of natural fibers have improved significantly in terms of ease of care and functionality. The requirements for comfort and environmental protection are more and more prominent, and it is reasonable that natural fiber knitwear is more and more popular in the market.
Luxury yarn
The feedback from the market shows that luxury elements occupy a relatively important position in the fashion trend of clothing. As the basis of luxury elements, their demand is also expanding. Cashmere, alpaca, mohair and other luxurious yarns are processed through special technology, which is not only limited to the application of autumn and winter clothing, but also increasingly popular in the spring and summer market. Cashmere is spun with ultra-fine counts and mixed with other fibers such as cotton, which maintains a cool feel while increasing softness. In addition, luxurious cotton has always been the darling of the high-end market. Super long Peruvian cotton has natural comfort, super soft and skin-friendly, and is the most valuable fabric in pure cotton high-end women's fashion. While satisfying women's pursuit of fashion trends, its meticulous and lightweight quality also brings consumers a more perfect physical experience.
Fine wool
Due to the growing demand for fine wool apparel in the international market, the fine wool industry has established a foothold in Europe, and improved Merino wool products have begun to be introduced. Internationally renowned clothing brands have thrown "hydrangea" on fine wool, using more fashionable elements in the design. For example, Italian brands such as Zegna, Dolce & Gabbana and Armani have increased their development efforts on fine wool products, which has strongly affected the entire clothing market.
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Sports and leisure
The development trend of sports and leisure products has been very strong in recent years, so the requirements for moisture absorption, ventilation, and wind and warmth of fabrics have become higher and higher. With the advancement of natural fiber production technology, functional yarns, which are usually dominated by chemical fiber products, begin to tilt towards natural materials. Well-known sports brands such as Puma and Adidas have adopted natural fibers represented by Tencel, and their deepening into the sports and leisure market seems to better illustrate the excellent quality of natural fibers.
Metallic line
Whether used in the form of single yarn or blended with cotton, wool, etc., the metal wire has a very good performance. In the design of knitted garments, the application of metal wires is considered the finishing touch. Lively colors and bright luster are destined to be the darlings of the future fashion market. The innovative application of metal wires has subverted the traditional understanding of yarns. Fabrics containing metal wires have become an important part of future trends due to their unique memory and wrinkle effects. In addition, the fabric containing metal wires can permanently prevent static electricity, radiation, and ultraviolet rays, and can effectively protect pregnant women and office workers who work in front of computers for a long time.
The above is the prospect of yarn trends from the perspective of innovation and technology. Natural fiber products are undoubtedly the current trend of market development. After that, we will analyze the situation of the latest season yarn from the perspective of fashion trends.
Source: China Textile News
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The process of an undercover agent avoiding the enemy during a secret mission can be written as an exciting spy novel. However, the next interesting event about cryptography and craftsmanship is a true story. During World War II, an agent who appeared to be an innocent grandma, while watching the outside quietly, was dancing her knitting needles.
Granny's rigid, feminine appearance hides coded espionage information woven from fabric. The Belgian Resistance Army recruited her to look down at the railway and record the type and time of the train passing through the kitchen window.
The grandma is a learned craftsman. She has extraordinary technology, which can transform the patterns of letters and patterns into intelligence data and collect them. The eyes of ordinary people cannot see them. Only those who know how to decrypt can decipher this steganography Secret data is a technology that is hidden in ordinary, non-secret files or messages).
The review office at the time banned the sending of knitwear and crochet patterns abroad, suspecting that they held encrypted confidential communications. However, the code hidden on the knitted garment was never discovered by the inspectors.
British spy and skilled weaver Phyllis Latour Doyle airborne to Normandy, codenamed Paulette. Paulette is not an ordinary programmer. She has handicraft skills inherited from several generations of family knitters, which makes her a brave craftsman who can code in dangerous environments. As she rode her bicycle across enemy territory, she woven coded messages into scarves and caps. Seventy years later, the 93-year-old heroine received the Legion of Honor in recognition of her courage to assist the Allies. In contrast, James Bond (007) can only be considered an amateur detective. Maybe he should master the weaving technique ...
Charles Dickens, based on the inspiration of weaving codes, created the characters in the novel, that is, Mrs. Tas DeFage in The Twin Cities. As a knitting hand, Mrs. Defacci encoded the name of the beheaded person who was executed publicly at the guillotine during the French Revolution during the weaving. This is a bloody story presented by the hands of a craftsman.
Although the term "craftsmanship" was coined by sociologist Betsy Grier in 2003, brave women have been craftsmen for centuries. The earliest braids were made using a technique called "nalebinding", which was discovered at the Dura-Europo archeological site and dates back to 265 AD.
Computer code is a descendant of knitting and crochet code. It is produced by the code of wool fiber and the code of Internet fiber. Similar to the 0 state and 1 state of the binary computer, knitting has two kinds of stitches: lower stitch and upper stitch. Index variables with increasing and decreasing operations correspond to knitting rows with increasing and decreasing stitch counts. Knitting and crochet patterns are like computer programs: input a yarn and output a sweater.
Morse code knitting machines use a single upper stitch to indicate "drops" and three consecutive upper stitches to indicate "clicks" to create short and long encoded signals. The coder is a craftsman. In the physics lab at Georgia Tech, Dr. Elisabetta Matsumoto is officially researching weaving techniques as cryptography. Her research used yarn as a programmable material with more complicated stitching patterns than binary ones and zeros.
The secret weaving method of the spy is a lively mathematical topological structure, which makes this grandma a qualified instructor of Knit-to-Code, an organization that uses knitting as a computer simulation teaching simulation material. The logic used by both media is the same: learning to weave helps to learn to code. So, contrary to popular belief, grandma is actually on par with her granddaughter's millennial generation of computer experts.
Today, the protection of traditional craftsmanship continues. Susan Hewes is a top craftsman with two Guinness World Records: the first is to knit the longest scarf, the second is to crochet the longest chain ... both of which were completed during the marathon! This is an incredible feat in a multitasking coding project, and this weave also raises funds for Alzheimer's research.
Another meaning of coding is to allow handicrafts to carry narratives that reflect personal and collective thoughts and emotions. Feminists who fight for women's right to vote use embroidery patterns in various colors-purple for dignity, white for purity, and green for hope. From pink Pussyhats handmade to raise awareness about women's issues in the United States, to protest banners made to stop Soweto's gender violence Story Scarves, handicraft artwork contains coding clues, in Globally, inspiring thoughtful dialogue in the social fabric of our lives.
Some of these stories are submerged and inundated, waiting to be decoded. The importance of coding textiles lies in their potential significance. Humans are inherently capable of deciphering these meaningful codes. Craftsmanship is indelibly affected by the code, so that the yarn can also become our narrator, and the yarn show is a stage for the narrator.
Source: China Digital Science and Technology Museum
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With the continuous improvement of customers' requirements for yarn quality, spinning companies have paid more attention to strictly controlling the yarn quality. At present, the harmful defects affecting the quality of the cloth mainly include thick knots, details, unevenness, flying, neps and abnormal defects. By standardizing production operations, focusing on equipment maintenance, process adjustment and quality control, spinning companies can control yarn defects within the normal range.
The next yarn exhibition will introduce you.
1. Reasonably configure process parameters to reduce spinning yarn defects
Reduce the yarn defects in the semi-finished fabrics can effectively reduce the end break rate of the spun yarn, while reducing the end break rate of the spun yarn can increase the output, reduce the cost per ton of yarn, stabilize the yarn quality, and create favorable conditions for improving the competitiveness of the company's products. We have summarized several specific practices.
In the combing process, do a good job of optimizing the configuration and management of the combing carding elements, to obtain a good carding effect. By actively and effectively selecting the corresponding technical measures, try to reduce the inlays of the top comb and cylinder. This phenomenon prevents the fibers from entering the cotton web in a bundle structure and reduces the chance of end breaks in the next process. Regularly check the tension state and abrasion of the draft toothed belt and the coiled toothed belt. Reasonably adjust the tension of the coiled ring, while reducing the congestion of the coiler, it can also reduce the probability of broken overhead of the draw frame.
Appropriately reducing the jaw spacing, roller center distance, and draft ratio of the back of the roving will help reduce the CV value of the fine yarn. However, the tightening of the above process will inevitably increase the sliver drafting force and the planktonic fiber control force. The holding force and the drafting force, the guiding force and the control force must be developed simultaneously to draw normally, to prevent the poor roving process, Poor drafting caused by defects in the drafting element and the pressurizing mechanism. Therefore, the jaw spacing of the roving, the center distance of the rollers, the draft multiple in the rear zone, and the total draft multiple seek an optimal combination.
At the same time, it is necessary to strengthen the operation and management to reduce the influence of factors such as the unclean flying of the machine on the sliver and the adverse effect of the winding mechanism on the sliver. If these defects are more serious, sporadic yarn defects may occur.
2. Perfect and rough process control of semi-finished product quality
In the drawing process, after the sliver is combed through the combing process, the fiber separation, parallelism, and straightness are good, but the cohesion between the fibers is poor, and it is easy to loosen and hair, and the fiber will not be in the subsequent process. There is a chance to comb. Therefore, the thickening process should reduce the deterioration of the internal structure of the sliver before the twisting of the sliver, reduce the factors that cause the edge fiber to be defective, reduce the lint and flying flowers attached to the sliver, and reduce the sliver unwinding and curling. Friction, kneading, entanglement and twisting during winding, thereby reducing the neps formed by friction, rubbing, entanglement and twisting.
Reduce the draft multiple and draft force can reduce the growth rate of lint and neps, thus improving the dryness;
According to the sliver quantification, choosing a smaller diameter of the sliver bell mouth can improve the tightness of the sliver and reduce the chance of local sliver breakage when the sliver is fed after the roving machine, thereby improving the sliver and hairiness;
According to the sliver quantity and barrel capacity, design a reasonable fixed length to avoid too much sliver capacity and cause excessive squeezing between the top sliver and the sliver chassis to increase friction, kneading and twisting to form neps;
It is necessary to control the deviation of the weight of the sliver, reduce the CV value of the sliver, and prevent the details of the yarn length caused by the poor drawing process.
Therefore, the drawing process should reduce the CV value of cooked slivers on the premise of eliminating long details. These are mainly achieved through reasonable design of the process route, configuration of drafting elements and pressurization mechanisms, strengthening of operation management and machine cleanliness.
In the roving process, the CV value of the roving sliver and the structure of the sliver fiber will affect the CV value of the sliver and the frequently occurring yarn defects. The roving quality CV value will affect the spun yarn quality CV value, and roving yarn defects will affect sporadic yarn defects.
3. Adjust the low-wet blended yarn defect
Aiming at the problems that users report that R / C65 / 3542tex yarn has high yarn defects and many end breaks, we have found out the reasons for the above problems by rewinding the package and analyzing hundred tube yarn defects. By adopting a series of measures, the yarn quality has reached the user requirements.
Analysis of a certain batch of yarn found that the yarn defect in the pre-spinning process was 56%. After investigation, it was found that the moisture regain of this batch of yarn semi-finished products was small. The standard moisture regain was 11.4% after the slivers were mixed, but the actual moisture resurgence was only 7.5% to 7.8%. We have adopted measures such as pretreatment of viscose fibers, humidification of discs, and moisturization during the carding process, so that the moisture regain of the card can reach 9.5%. The production area of the drawing process is also humidified correspondingly, and carbon black rubber rollers are used to prevent the rubber rollers from sucking and entanglement. After the slivers are mixed, the actual moisture regain is more than 8.5%. Through humidification, the spinning production is significantly improved, and yarn defects are also significantly reduced.
The spun yarn has a high front roller speed for spinning coarse yarns. It is advisable to adopt a large-gap, heavy pressurization process and a reasonable pressurization gear to ensure that the drafting force is compatible with the gripping force and reduce the rubber roller. Damage caused by rubber ring.
Because it is a coarse yarn, if the joint parameters are not adjusted properly during splicing, a defect will be formed and it will appear on the cloth surface. Therefore, in the splicing process, parameters such as blown yarn tail, yarn tail superposition, air-jet splicing, and winding speed must be optimized. By adjusting the splicer and the splicer cavity, the speed of the trough can be reduced to 1200 m / min. The main yarn clearing process parameters are short thick + 130% × 1 cm, long thick + 30% × 15 cm, and long thin-40% × 20 Cm, up to 100,000 meters of yarn defects reached about four.
Through the implementation of the above measures, the production of this type of yarn is stable, and the defect of 100-tube yarn is significantly improved, which has been recognized by users.
Source: Chemical Fiber Headlines
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