SoGoodToWear: Reviving the cashmere industry in Nepal

Amsterdam - SoGoodToWear is not your average fashion brand. The Dutch, fair trade fashion brand offers the perfect, luxury cashmere basics. But simply making the best possible garments in the best possible way is not enough for founders Fons and Jacqui Burger. In order to help kick start real change within the fashion industry, the duo decided to launch a new initiative which focuses on sustainable manufacturing. They launched a crowdfunding campaign in the hopes of raising enough money to revive a forgotten industry in Nepal. Now through the SoGoodToWear cooperative, a new social enterprise set up by the Burger’s, the brand aims to bring back the local cashmere industry and establish their supply-chain to Nepal.

“A long, long time ago they used to have cashmere goats in Nepal, but the industry in the area has slowly faded away. So we began researching the possibility of reintroducing cashmere goats in Nepal, as we found out that the knitting of cashmere is very sophisticated, yet outdated craft in the country,” explained Jacqui Burger. The idea for the initiative stems back to 2015 when Jacqui and Fons visited Nepal. After travelling to the far west, they came face to face with the harsh reality thousands of locals in Gorkha were faced with after being struck by an earthquake. Many of them were struggling to rebuild their homes and livelihoods, after losing everything during the natural disaster. The Burgers sought a way to provide structural employment in the remote areas of Nepal for the years to come, rather than just emergency aid. “We were thinking how great it could be if we could offer them jobs, income and economic perspectives for the future without harming the beautiful nature there. So we thought maybe we could do something with goats.”

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SoGoodToWear to revive the cashmere industry in Nepal via 'Goats for Gorkha'

The two began researching the possibilities of reintroducing cashmere goat herding to the region after discovering the country’s rich history working with cashmere. “They use wonderful techniques, but there is hardly any innovation,” said Burger. “At the moment the resource itself, the cashmere wool , has to be imported from China, and import taxes are sky high, which makes Nepal not very competitive for the market. So we thought it would be great if we could combine the two things - innovate the local knitting industry of cashmere and reintroduce the whole supply chain from the goat onwards.” In order to fund the initiative, the Burgers decided to launch an international cooperative under SoGoodToWear, and raise money via crowdfunding. This way everyone who invests in the cooperative will also own a share of the business . “We wanted to create a social enterprise, not a private company, which is as much ours, as it is the goat herders in Nepal. We also want to control our entire cashmere supply chain in terms of fair trade and animal welfare issues.”

In order to join the SoGoodToWear cooperative, investors must buy a cashmere goat for 100 euros. Up to five people can pool their resources to buy a goat together. Afterwards, they will be able to see exactly where the money goes and be kept up to date with the initiative. In addition, t hey also receive 20 percent discount on SoGoodToWear garments , which will eventually be made from the local cashmere . After successfully raising 50,000 euros, the cooperation iscurrently in the process of linking farmers with small herds of 10 t o 20 cashmere goats. Because there has not been a purebred type of pashmina goat, the Nepalese word for cashmere, in the country for a long time, SoGoodToWear aims to cross breed local goats from the region with imported male cashmere goats from Italy from its partner Nora Kravis . “This cross breeding will have two advantages as the cashmere goats from Europe are used to producing thicker coats at a lower altitude and they are genetically adapted to thrive in lower heights,” added Burger. “Plus, they are gorgeous.”

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SoGoodToWear to bring back the whole cashmere supply-chain to Nepal

There are two reasons why SoGoodToWear is linking families with smaller herds. One is because they want to help as many families in as many villages as possible. But they also aim to protect and preserve the natural habitats in the region. “If you have big herds then they can be very destructive, as they eat everything in sight. So we have smaller herders and are training the goat herders what type of areas they should bring their herds to, to avoid areas with new trees and bushes and creating specific routes to do the least possible harm to nature.” In addition, the project will also positively impact the communities of the farmers involved, as SoGoodToWear also supplies them with solar energy, clean water and workshops. “So the entire community benefits from that.”

SoGoodToWear is set to build community spaces in the villages of Gunchock and Deurali, where the Nepalese cooperative members will be offered training on how to manage the central herds. Spinning wheels will also be present in the community room. “Cashmere is so valuable. When we take the raw wool of the goat and do the combing and dehairing, we will do it by hand. In China, this process is done by the machines, which leads to half of the hairs being lost," she explained. "But when it is done by hand, it is a simple job, hardly any is lost. Plus it is a job that nearly anyone can do, even those with a physical disability." SoGoodToWear also aims to teach the locals in Nepal how to spin the cashmere wool and naturally dye it. In this way, they aim to create new jobs and take control of their own cashmere supply chain, from the goat to the finished product.

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SoGoodToWear: Making fashion the way it should be made

SoGoodToWear expects to have produced the first batch of its own cashmere in a year from now. From there on, they will start to make new collections, with the aim ensuring that 100 percent of their cashmere is own sourced within 4 to 6 years. “At the moment we purchase certified cashmere wool to use in our collections. But this is still not ideal, as when we want to travel to places where this cashmere wool is gathered, we can’t. It makes it hard. Taking control of our own supply chain by working with the social enterprise to produce our own cashmere, makes things a lot easier for us. Of course, it’s not just about having a good supply chain, we also work hard to ensure that our products are designed well and are appealing to customers, so it's not just a charity project. We are just making fashion the way it should be made.”

For more news, please pay attention to Cardigan fair.

Source: FASHIONUNITED

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Various significant aspects of brassiere manufacturing are covered, e.g. bra design, molding technology, and manufacturing automation. Bra design is substantial to brand product development while innovative molding technology is the key to signature types of bras like a sew-free bra, seamless bra, and one-piece bra. Automation has been a global trend in manufacturing as it reduces the labor cost and, on the other hand, enhances the consistency in product quality.

In this article organized by the underwear fair, various significant aspects of brassiere manufacturing are covered, e.g. bra design, molding technology, and manufacturing automation. Bra design is substantial to brand product development while innovative molding technology is the key to signature types of bras like a sew-free bra, seamless bra, and one-piece bra. Automation has been a global trend in manufacturing as it reduces the labor cost and, on the other hand, enhances the consistency in product quality.

The raw material used for Bra production

The raw materials gathered for the production of brassieres vary tremendously depending on the product. Some are all cotton, some are all polyester, some are combinations of natural and synthetics, and so forth. Most brassieres include an elastic material of some sort on the back panel that allows some expansion and movement of back muscles. Spandex, a modern synthetic fiber extensively processed from Malaysian tree sap, must be processed prior to the assembling of the brassiere because it is, in some products, the most important material in the brassiere. A closure of some sort (most often metal hooks and eyes) must be included on the brassiere unless it is an elastic sports brassiere which can be put on over the head. Cups, padding, and straps vary not only from manufacturer to manufacturer but by style.

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The Manufacturing Process

The methods for constructing brassieres vary from one company to the next. It is a product that is still pieced out in some plants, which means that the sewing work that connects all the components are contracted out of the plant to smaller sewing operators for job work. In addition, materials utilized in the construction of the brassiere affects the manufacturing method. For example, if an undergarment company utilizes spandex within the product, they may manufacture the material on premises. If a company uses cotton, it may be supplied from a manufacturer who makes the material based on their specifications.

Cutting out the components

The components of the brassiere—the cup top and bottom (if seamed), the straps, and the central, side and back panels—must be cut out according to the pattern specifications residing in the computerized specifications. Many layers of fabric are cut out at a time using either a bandsaw-like shearing device or a more contemporary computer-controlled laser. The cups, panels, and straps are cut; kept together in stacks via style; and sent out to various locations to be sewn.

Sewing

The stacks may be sent to different parts of the factory or even off premises to piece workers who assemble the brassieres using industrial grade sewing machines. However, large operations send the pieces The manufacture of brassieres involves first cutting many layers of fabric at one time using either a bandsaw-like shearing device or a more contemporary computer-controlled laser. Once cut, the pattern pieces are assembled at the factory by workers, off-site by piece workers, or by automated machinery. Hooks and eyes are both sewn in by machine and heat processed or ironed into the two halves of the back panel.Cups might be sewn onto a side panel, the parts move along and another piece is sewn on, etc. In larger facilities, humans rarely sew anything onto the brassiere unless it is a peculiar or unusual design.

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Closures and labels

The brassiere, assembled a bit at a time as it moves through the machinery, is ready for the closures. Coated metal hooks and eyes are both sewn in by machine and heat processed or ironed into the two halves of the back panel. The label is usually machine-stitched into the back or side panel as well at this time.

Packaging

The completed brassieres are sent (either transported in a bin or on a line) to another location and sorted by style and folded (either by hand or machine depending on the size of the operation). Boxes into which many brassieres come arrive at the manufacturer completely flat. Machines must crease and fold the packages that are fed into the machine and a rectangular box is created. A worker called a picker puts a brassiere into the box, the box is closed, and then sent down a chute. A laser reads that the box is fully packed and ready to go to the holding area, awaiting transportation to the wholesaler.

Quality Control

Quality is controlled in all phases of the design and manufacture of the brassiere. First, experienced designers and design engineers understand the requirements of the wearer as well as the marketers and design with activities and cleaning requirements in mind. Second, a very important part is procuring fabrics and components (underwire, hooks, and eyes, or buckles) that are durable. Testing of materials includes assessing shrink-resistance, color-fastness, and durability, shape-retention, stretch, manufacturing stability, and comfort. Companies work with suppliers in order to acquire new materials that provide service as well as value. In fact, some manufacturers have developed their own fabrics or underwire because all other similar support materials on the market were inferior. Third, prototypes are extensively examined by many members of the company and problems are discovered and solved when many are involved in the assessment of new products. An essential part of this is when the prototype moves from a single example to early manufacturing. Those involved in the manufacturing assist in solving the problems that can occur in the initial stages of manufacturing.

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Finally, manufacturers must offer consumers brassieres that fit well. In prototyping and in manufacturing, the brassieres are inspected and expected to be within 0.125 in (0.3175 cm) of the desired measurements (one French company requires that the brassiere must not deviate from the standard pattern more than 1 mm[0.0394 in]). If not, the brassiere is rejected as an inferior or second.

Source: Textile School

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Fabrics from Man-Made Fibers are made from fibers which are either completely made from inorganic or organic materials combined with chemicals. Synthetic fabrics have numerous properties with the purpose for which it is produced and finished. Some are lightweight with ultra sheer while others are moisture wicking and fast drying. Few are very luxurious to imitate some other natural fabrics and some are very strong and tough.

Man-made fibers are mainly divided into two groups:

1. Manufactured with Natural Polymers are cellulosic fibers that have been made by chemically changing the natural material

2. Manufactured with Synthetic Polymers are generally derived from petrochemicals which are processed into polymer substances and then melted in the spinning process and extruded as polyester fibers.

1. Man-made Fibers from Natural Polymers

Rayon comes from the wood pulp of the eucalyptus, pine or beech wood. It can also be made from short cotton fibers called cotton linters – a waste product from the cotton processing industry. Rayon fabric is a synthetic textile fiber which is obtained by forcing a cellulose solution through fine spinnerets. In other words, rayon fabric is a final result of solidifying filaments. The process of making rayon is quite distinct; through which natural raw supplies are transformed to make it practical.

Cellulose acetate is a combination of cellulose from wood pulp and acetic acid. It is a dry, granular substance which can be dry spun when dissolved in acetone.

Made from the cellulose and obtained by reconstructing cotton or wood pulp, Acetate fabric is resistant to shrinkage, moth, and mildew. Acetate is a fabric which gives extremely soft and luxurious look just like silk fabric.

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Lyocell is the generic name for a group of fibers derived from plant cellulose. One of the most important of these fibers is Tencel® developed by Courthauld.

Although the main source of lyocell is wood pulp, unlike viscose, the manufacturing process is quite different and has been developed to be more environmentally sensitive. The whole process of Lyocell is considered eco-friendly since waste can be re-used.

Azlon fibers are composed of protein materials derived from natural sources. It is produced, like other synthetic fibers, by converting the raw material to a solution that is extruded through the holes of a device called a spinneret and then stretched to improve the alignment of the chains of molecules making up the fibers.

2. Man-made fibers from Synthetic Polymers

Polyester is a type of fabric that is not found naturally. The polyester fabric is man-made, which has a huge market share (more than 50%) compared to other commercially used fibers. The fabric is widely used in various applications and is very much in demand in markets. This fabric has various qualities due to those it is so popular like wrinkle resistance and springing back into its smooth shape. The fabric is very strong and soft as well. The polyester fabric can also be mixed with other fabrics to make a strong and durable fabric or to achieve any other motive. For example, In upholstery, polyester is generally blended with wool to eliminate crushing and reduce fading. There are various uses of polyester fabric like it is used in casement curtains, draperies, floor coverings, throw rugs, bedding, and as a cushioning or insulating material.

Nylon fabric is preferred amidst all other fabrics as it is really strong and has a strong ability of stretchiness. High elasticity of nylon fabrics makes it prime use in like of luggage baggage, wallets and many more. In addition, nylon fabrics are easy to maintain as gets cleaned and dried without any special effort.

Nylon Fabrics are availed in the latest forms that are much stiffer and lighter in weight. Since it is highly durable, nylon fabric makes the cloth or the other long lasting and wears and tears resistant. Nylon is the polymer of amide, termed as polyamide extracted from the petroleum.

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Acrylic fabrics is a kind of the synthetic fiber that is artificially manufactured. Acrylic fabrics can also be referred as the imitation of wool. Acrylic fabrics are used to make loads of apparels and many other things. The main use of the Acrylic fabrics is in outfits like shirts and many other ladies outfits. Also, Acrylic fabrics are used in seats of chairs and sofas as well. Acrylic fabrics are known for their stiffness and ability to wear and tear resistance. Acrylic also does not possess the glaze for a longer period of time.

Acrylic fabrics are available mainly in two forms that are ‘Courtelle’ and ‘Orlon’. These fabrics are known for their durability and especially Orlon is reckoned for its light weightiness. These kinds of Acrylic fabrics serve plenty of option in shapes and designs. In the market, there are several manufacturers and suppliers in the business of the Acrylic fabrics. That shows the popularity of Acrylic fabrics amidst masses.

Because of its great shape retention quality, spandex fabric is widely used as the fashion fabric. The important point to note about spandex fabric is that it bounces back to its original structure even after stretching up to 600 times. Highly durable superior strength spandex fabric is resistant to dry heat and oil. Providing great comfort and flexibility it does not put on weight on the body of the wearer.

Lastex fabric basically refers to an elastic fiber that is made from Latex. The lastex fabric is used with other complex fibers with a intent to made different fabrics like spandex and foundation garments.

Polypropylene fabric is especially meant for winter seasons because the only layer of hundred percent polypropylene rib knit generally stays dry and due to this feature, it keeps one’s body warmer. A high-quality lightweight polypropylene fabric is preferred in winter season because it allows a user to perform any moderate activity in cold weather at ease.

Polypropylene fabric basically consists of hydrophobic which relinquishes any possibility of moisture in such fabric and further its pushes the moisture vapor away from the skin. Entailing a large number of features, polypropylene fabric can simply be termed stunning in each and every aspect.

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Polyethylene fabric is a distinct fabric that is highly acclaimed in the domestic and industrial sectors. Polyethylene fabric is known for its unmatchable density and strength that is superior to all others. Polyethylene fabric is a type of a synthetic fabric that is manufactured in the labs.

For more news , please pay attention to knitting fair.

Source: Textile School

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