Ten US mills sign up to US Cotton Trust Protocol

As far as Knitting fair knows, The US Cotton Trust Protocol is welcoming its first 10 US cotton textile manufacturers – Buhler Quality Yarns, Cap Yarns, CCW, Contempora Fabrics, Cotswold Industries Inc., Frontier Yarns, Hamrick Mills, Inman Mills, Parkdale Inc., Swisstex Direct as members. US Cotton Trust Protocol membership enables the mills and manufacturers to prove that they are an approved supply chain partner for brands and retailers who are sourcing more sustainably grown cotton.

“One of our goals with the Trust Protocol is to give brands and retailers greater confidence when including US cotton in their sourcing mix. Our emphasis on measurement and independent verification can provide confidence and trust that a brand is using quality, responsibly grown cotton and producing a product that consumers can believe in,” said Dr. Gary Adams, president of the US Cotton Trust Protocol.

“We are delighted that these US mills have joined the Trust Protocol as that supports the much sought-after supply chain transparency and by using US manufactured cotton products, brands and retailers are choosing a reliable and transparent partner right here in the USA.”

Mills and manufacturers who become members of the Trust Protocol have access to the Trust Protocol credit system to validate consumption of cotton and associated credits. The combination of a unique credit accounting system and the Permanent Bale Identification (PBI) system enables brands to have transparency throughout the supply chain to finished product.

The Trust Protocol has been invited to join Cotton 2040 and its CottonUp guide and also is on the Textile Exchange’s list of 36 preferred fibers and materials that more than 170 participating brands and retailers can select from as part of Textile Exchange’s Material Change Index program. In December the Trust Protocol also announced Gap Inc. joined as part of its integrated sustainability strategy and to help achieve its commitment to use only 100% sustainably sourced cotton by 2025.

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In a period of ever-greater supply chain scrutiny and a growing demand for transparency, the US Cotton Trust Protocol aims to set a new standard for more sustainably grown cotton. It also aims to bring quantifiable and verifiable goals and measurement to responsibly-grown cotton production and drives continuous improvement in key sustainability metrics.

“The Trust Protocol underpins and verifies US cotton’s progress through sophisticated data collection and independent third-party verification. Choosing Trust Protocol cotton will give brands and retailers the critical assurances they need that the cotton fibre element of their supply chain is more sustainably grown with lower environmental and social risk. Brands and retailers will gain access to US cotton with sustainability credentials proven via Field to Market, measured via the Fieldprint Calculator and verified with Control Union Certifications,” the organisation says.

The US Cotton Trust Protocol is overseen by a multi-stakeholder Board of Directors comprised of representatives from brands and retailers, civil society and independent sustainability experts as well as the cotton-growing industry, including growers, ginners, merchants, wholesalers and cooperatives, mills and cottonseed handlers.

Leading global apparel company Gap Inc. has joined the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol and Textile Exchange’s 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge as part of its integrated sustainability strategy and to help it achieve its commitment to use only 100% sustainably sourced cotton by 2025.

Gap Inc.’s target of sourcing 100% of its cotton from more sustainable sources by 2025 is set across its collection of purpose-led lifestyle brands including Old Navy, Gap, Banana Republic and Athleta.

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The Trust Protocol will help Gap Inc. meet this goal by providing verified data on the sustainability practices used on U.S. cotton farms. Participating cotton growers will benefit from data-driven insights and best practices from across the industry, as well as a stronger connection to brands asking for sustainably grown cotton. The Trust Protocol opened for membership in October 2020 and provides brands and retailers with the critical assurance they need to prove that the cotton in their supply chain is more responsibly grown.

“Continuous improvement is important to Gap Inc., which is why we have decided to begin sourcing more sustainable fibre through the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol. As part of our commitment to address climate change by aligning with the best science and industry practices, we have ambitious targets across metrics to lower carbon emissions and preserve precious natural resources like water. As an American company with purpose-led brands committed to sustainability, joining the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol makes perfect sense,” said Alice Hartley, Director of Product Sustainability for Gap Inc. “With two thirds of U.S. cotton not using any irrigation at all, this allows us to further our commitment to sustainable cotton and enables us to support U.S. cotton growers.”

Source: Knitting Industry

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International fashion trends for Autumn/Winter 2021/22 and Spring/Summer 2022 were harder to decipher in this COVID-restricted year. The situation led to concerted efforts to adopt developing technology at speed, so that digital Knitting fairs could be established, and real business initiated. Various methods were devised by different organisations, Pitti Immagine, Milano Unica, Premiere Vision and Filo Milan. Some hybrid, some purely digital, staying live for months.

Eco themes

Eco-responsible manufacturing is strong, a positive optional choice, the usp of the European industry. It forms part of the communications of most brands. Evidence of continuing faith in its prime importance despite 2020 pandemic setbacks, includes statements from industry bodies and numerous online examples of sustainability initiatives from designers and producers in all sectors. The words luxury and sustainable move in tandem for 2021.

Soft touch

Strong emphasis on softness and comfort was present especially in yarns, Both Pitti Filati and Filo spoke of thicker, substantial yarns with very little weight, looking rustic but feeling surprisingly soft. Soft Merino, alpaca, cashmere often mixed with synthetics for decoration or extra strength, for knitting and weaving.

Deliberate imperfections

Inspired by the look of ‘peat bogs, marbling, tearing, spilling’ and the disrupting of classic expected patterns, also described as Meticulously Damaged and Fanciful Corrosions; roughing-up of surfaces, textures, menacing prints of diabolic tendrils and roots moving across fabric, Gothic fancy yarns and lace, fabrics decorated with yarn, metallics and passementerie. Embroidery and decoration is back, but lighter and more fanciful.

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Performance

The importance of functionality and solidity can be found in robust indigo yarns, cotton, linen, hemp, wool, with recognizable visuals relating to workwear. Woven fabrics derived from utilitarian materialism used for revised working conditions.

Techno knits adopted for streetwear. Traditional weaves interpreted with disrupted geometrics, and dense, functional outerwear conceived with weave and knit side by side. Knitwear and woven fabrics are almost Interchangeable in colour and pattern, used to break up traditional designs like Prince of Wales or herringbones, changing their contours in the different media. Forward-looking Knitwear expressing new looks: puffed up knits as though filled with air, light yarns and weightless jumpers for Summer 2022.

Going forward, I think all shades of red from dark to light will be strong for both men’s and women’s. Black of course is going to make a huge comeback.

At Pitti Uomo, laid-back pre-worn jumpers aimed for eccentric shapes, with stretched knits reassembled for jackets. Milled yarns and brushed fabrics knitted for heft and warmth, soft colours, like green and blue mohair and wool for coats.

Colours, shine and glitter

The New Black tipped by all the important trend maker goes from Pitti Immagine through Milano Unica to Premiere Vision for a ‘seamless fusion of style codes’ in archival silhouettes and new fabrics.

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Yarns 2022 veered between natural shades of animal and plant fibres and an explosion of bright colour. texture and floral brightness, and PV’s chosen red as a star colour comes through strongly. Shine does not diminish; Filo saw blends like linen/viscose/polyester/ lamé. Darker green/grey, intersected with bright blue and accents dominate shade cards, meeting metallics and dark ecclesiastical looks at Pitti Filati’s Ray of Light.

More dramatic hues involve gradual brightening like brown into chestnut and ginger, for recoloured checked menswear. Undyed looks exploit natural fibres, but with glitter and synthetics too, breaking the rules and gradually turning up the heat.

Textile Consultant and international colour expert Beryl Gibson said: “Going forward, I think all shades of red from dark to light will be strong for both men’s and women’s. Black of course is going to make a huge comeback.“

Localisation and certification

The importance of identity ran through the shows. Identified materials and location provided prestige; British wool breeds, Shetland, Merino, Escorial, Peruvian alpaca, Lochcarron of Scotland at PV, Begg & Co at Pitti Uomo.

Italian icons like Cariaggi cashmere, Zegna Baruffa Cashwool, Como silk. Fashion’s role in Italy provided momentum for shows to go on, supporting disparate Italian companies serving iconic brands, tailoring, edgy streetwear and Yarns for knitwear, weaving and industry.

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Fashion segues into the next seasons

In part due to the particular circumstances of the year, fashion is moving more gently through the seasons; ecological concerns of reducing waste and building on existing success rather than abruptly changing colours, fibres, fabrics and clothing has been helpful, pioneered by trend experts, and mentioned in all markets, as more in tune today’s sensibilities.

As 2020 has progressed change has happened. Manufacturers reported buyers were playing safe at first, tending to order repeats of previous purchases, buying from stock. The digital shows have revealed a wealth of design, artisanal craft, quality, innovation and new ways of commerce being developed. Movers in industry were desperate to keep momentum going during 2020. The huge effort to switch direction and harness new technology has undoubtedly helped in a difficult trading year, the experience making ready for further challenges.

Source: Knitting Industry

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The COVID-19 pandemic has changed the clothing preference for many consumers as they now spend much of their time at home. Nowadays, more consumers look for comfortable, versatile, and sustainable apparel that can be worn for multiple occasions and last longer.

Singapore headquartered cellulosic fibre producer RGE, has released a progress report on its commitment to invest USD200 million in next-generation textile fibre innovation and technology over a ten-year period. The inaugural report is released a week ahead of the annual Textile Exchange Sustainability Conference where RGE announced its commitment a year ago.

The 28-page report provides a summary of the activities undertaken by RGE’s business groups involved in the fashion value chain to advance its ambition towards closed loop, circular and climate-positive cellulosic fibre.

Bey Soo Khiang, Vice Chairman, RGE, commented: “We pride ourselves on the fact that the virgin resources we draw on to make a range of daily essential products are renewable. But this does not mean that we rest on our laurels. In fact, we are taking our sustainability commitment to the next level by exploring how waste can also be used as a resource to regenerate new materials and give rise to a truly circular economy.”

The target allocation for the USD200 million investment over ten years is set at 70% in scaling up proven clean technology in fibre manufacturing, 20% in bringing pilot scale production to commercial scale, and 10% in R&D in emerging frontier solutions.

RGE has adopted a three-pronged approach to its investments: sourcing ready solutions in the market, investing in start-ups, and strengthening its in-house R&D capabilities.

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In the past 12 months, RGE explains, notable achievements included the launch of FINEX, a Recycled Claim Standard (RCS)-certified fibre containing up to 20% recycled content produced using a 35,000 ton per annum commercial line, inaugural production of Lyocell, a closed- loop fibre that uses minimal chemical and a solvent that is nearly fully recoverable and recycled, as well as new R&D facilities in China and Indonesia. It also initiated an in-house cotton textile waste recycling project.

RGE says it enhanced existing partnerships and forged new ones to promote progress towards broader goals. Its co-operation with Infinited Fiber Company now explores the retrofitting of viscose production with the start-up’s carbamate technology. A comprehensive study of the textile waste landscape in China in partnership with the China Association of Circular Economy is planned to commence early next year.

The report presents for the first-time related targets for RGE’s two viscose business groups in the coming decade. Sateri is set to have a product with 50% recycled content by 2023, and to reach 100% by 2030. It also aims for 20% of its feedstock to contain alternative or recycled materials by 2025. Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) will source 20% of its feedstock from alternative or recycled materials by 2030. In the area of closed-loop manufacturing, all existing Sateri and APR mills will meet EU-BAT emission limits by 2023.

Allen Zhang, President of Sateri, said: “I am very pleased with our progress in the past year. We have advanced quickly in spite of the challenges brought on by a global health pandemic. As a large and growing fibre producer known for product quality and cost-competitiveness, volume is both an advantage and disadvantage; while we are well-placed to scale solutions, we are currently constrained by the readiness of circularity-specific technology and, in the case of textile recycling and non-wood feedstock, the availability and volume of alternative feedstock. But with clear goals towards 2030, we are committed to accelerating our efforts.”

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According to Knitting fair, riding on this trend, global fibre producers, Lenzing and Hyosung, have teamed up to develop a Home Everywhere collection of performance fabrics that feature their renowned fibres and yarns to offer consumers comfortable, sustainable and attractive loungewear and activewear.

RGE is the world’s largest viscose producer, through its business groups Sateri and APR, with a strong presence in Asia where textile demand growth intersects with the textile production hub, presenting a real opportunity to drive change, the company says.

RGE was founded in 1973. The assets held by RGE companies today exceed US$20 billion. With more than 60,000 employees, it has operations in Indonesia, China, Brazil, Spain and Canada and continues to expand to engage newer markets and communities.

Source: RGE Website

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