International fashion trends for Autumn/Winter 2021/22 and Spring/Summer 2022 were harder to decipher in this COVID-restricted year. The situation led to concerted efforts to adopt developing technology at speed, so that digital Knitting fairs could be established, and real business initiated. Various methods were devised by different organisations, Pitti Immagine, Milano Unica, Premiere Vision and Filo Milan. Some hybrid, some purely digital, staying live for months.
Eco themes
Eco-responsible manufacturing is strong, a positive optional choice, the usp of the European industry. It forms part of the communications of most brands. Evidence of continuing faith in its prime importance despite 2020 pandemic setbacks, includes statements from industry bodies and numerous online examples of sustainability initiatives from designers and producers in all sectors. The words luxury and sustainable move in tandem for 2021.
Soft touch
Strong emphasis on softness and comfort was present especially in yarns, Both Pitti Filati and Filo spoke of thicker, substantial yarns with very little weight, looking rustic but feeling surprisingly soft. Soft Merino, alpaca, cashmere often mixed with synthetics for decoration or extra strength, for knitting and weaving.
Deliberate imperfections
Inspired by the look of ‘peat bogs, marbling, tearing, spilling’ and the disrupting of classic expected patterns, also described as Meticulously Damaged and Fanciful Corrosions; roughing-up of surfaces, textures, menacing prints of diabolic tendrils and roots moving across fabric, Gothic fancy yarns and lace, fabrics decorated with yarn, metallics and passementerie. Embroidery and decoration is back, but lighter and more fanciful.
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Performance
The importance of functionality and solidity can be found in robust indigo yarns, cotton, linen, hemp, wool, with recognizable visuals relating to workwear. Woven fabrics derived from utilitarian materialism used for revised working conditions.
Techno knits adopted for streetwear. Traditional weaves interpreted with disrupted geometrics, and dense, functional outerwear conceived with weave and knit side by side. Knitwear and woven fabrics are almost Interchangeable in colour and pattern, used to break up traditional designs like Prince of Wales or herringbones, changing their contours in the different media. Forward-looking Knitwear expressing new looks: puffed up knits as though filled with air, light yarns and weightless jumpers for Summer 2022.
Going forward, I think all shades of red from dark to light will be strong for both men’s and women’s. Black of course is going to make a huge comeback.
At Pitti Uomo, laid-back pre-worn jumpers aimed for eccentric shapes, with stretched knits reassembled for jackets. Milled yarns and brushed fabrics knitted for heft and warmth, soft colours, like green and blue mohair and wool for coats.
Colours, shine and glitter
The New Black tipped by all the important trend maker goes from Pitti Immagine through Milano Unica to Premiere Vision for a ‘seamless fusion of style codes’ in archival silhouettes and new fabrics.
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Yarns 2022 veered between natural shades of animal and plant fibres and an explosion of bright colour. texture and floral brightness, and PV’s chosen red as a star colour comes through strongly. Shine does not diminish; Filo saw blends like linen/viscose/polyester/ lamé. Darker green/grey, intersected with bright blue and accents dominate shade cards, meeting metallics and dark ecclesiastical looks at Pitti Filati’s Ray of Light.
More dramatic hues involve gradual brightening like brown into chestnut and ginger, for recoloured checked menswear. Undyed looks exploit natural fibres, but with glitter and synthetics too, breaking the rules and gradually turning up the heat.
Textile Consultant and international colour expert Beryl Gibson said: “Going forward, I think all shades of red from dark to light will be strong for both men’s and women’s. Black of course is going to make a huge comeback.“
Localisation and certification
The importance of identity ran through the shows. Identified materials and location provided prestige; British wool breeds, Shetland, Merino, Escorial, Peruvian alpaca, Lochcarron of Scotland at PV, Begg & Co at Pitti Uomo.
Italian icons like Cariaggi cashmere, Zegna Baruffa Cashwool, Como silk. Fashion’s role in Italy provided momentum for shows to go on, supporting disparate Italian companies serving iconic brands, tailoring, edgy streetwear and Yarns for knitwear, weaving and industry.
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Fashion segues into the next seasons
In part due to the particular circumstances of the year, fashion is moving more gently through the seasons; ecological concerns of reducing waste and building on existing success rather than abruptly changing colours, fibres, fabrics and clothing has been helpful, pioneered by trend experts, and mentioned in all markets, as more in tune today’s sensibilities.
As 2020 has progressed change has happened. Manufacturers reported buyers were playing safe at first, tending to order repeats of previous purchases, buying from stock. The digital shows have revealed a wealth of design, artisanal craft, quality, innovation and new ways of commerce being developed. Movers in industry were desperate to keep momentum going during 2020. The huge effort to switch direction and harness new technology has undoubtedly helped in a difficult trading year, the experience making ready for further challenges.
Source: Knitting Industry
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As far as Knitting fair knows, Naia Renew fibre is said to be traceable with certified biodegradability that captures the value of hard-to-recycle materials that would otherwise be destined for landfill.
Eastman, the producer of sustainably sourced Naiaä cellulosic fibre, has introduced its new Naia Renew portfolio, sourced from 60% wood pulp and 40% recycled waste plastics. Naia Renew cellulosic fibre is said to be traceable with certified biodegradability that captures the value of hard-to-recycle materials that would otherwise be destined for landfills. It can be produced at scale to deliver sustainability without compromise to the fashion world, Eastman reports.
Naia™ is sourced from sustainably managed pine and eucalyptus forests and plantations. Eastman's entire forestry supply chain adopts FSC® Forest Stewardship Council® procurement standards, including controlled wood procurement procedures.Eastman and its wood pulp suppliers hold FSC® Forest Stewardship Council® (C140711) and/or PEFC™ Forest Certification System Recognition Scheme™ Chain of Custody certification. In addition, Eastman also cooperates with the non-profit environmental protection organization Canopy to show long-term support for sustainable forest management.
Naia™ cellulose fiber adopts a safe closed-loop production process, and the solvent used in the process is recycled into the system and recycled. Reduce the environmental impact by optimizing the production process. From trees to fibers, Naia™ has only a very low environmental footprint, and the third-party certified life cycle assessment results meet the ISO 14044 standard. Naia™ is biodegradable in freshwater and soil environments, and compostable in industrial environments, and has obtained the "OK biodegradable" and "OK compostable" certifications awarded by TÜV AUSTRIA. Recently, Naia™ staple fiber obtained the “OK compostable” certification for the home environment.
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“Naia Renew enables a circular economy for the fashion industry and helps brands meet their eco-conscious goals,” said Ruth Farrell, global marketing director of textiles for Eastman. “We’re transforming what a fabric can be and do to meet the sustainability demands of our customers and to create a world where brands and consumers can be in fashion without compromising on quality and performance.”
Available as both a filament yarn and a staple fibre, Naia Renew offers clear advantages over other materials, Eastman adds. Naia Renew filament features a silky hand, rich lustre and fluid drape and is used to create fashionable womenswear garments, while Naia Renew staple fibre is inherently soft and quick drying, with reduced pilling properties, making it ideal for everyday casual wear.
According to Eastman, fully circular, Naia Renew is produced with a low carbon footprint in a closed-loop process where solvents are safely recycled back into the system for reuse. The fibre is made from wood pulp sourced from certified forests, and the recycled plastics feedstock is generated via Eastman’s patented carbon renewal technology (CRT). CRT is an integrated, molecular recycling technology that breaks down waste plastics, such as post- consumer carpet fibre and plastic packaging materials into basic molecular building blocks for the manufacture of new products including fibres. Eastman says it is a truly circular solution creating value from waste.
Naia is actively collaborating across the value chain for Naiaä Renew and will have announcements regarding brand partnerships soon.
“Our vision is to make sustainable fashion accessible for everyone,” Farrell added. “We all need to play our parts to help fix the future and work together to protect our planet’s precious resources for the next generations. With Naia Renew, you can take an active role in conserving resources and fostering innovation, while demonstrating a passion for sustainability that resonates with consumers worldwide.”
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Founded in 1920, Eastman is a global specialty materials company that produces a broad range of products found in items people use every day. With the purpose of enhancing the quality of life in a material way, Eastman works with customers to deliver innovative products and solutions while maintaining a commitment to safety and sustainability.
The company’s innovation-driven growth model takes advantage of world-class technology platforms, deep customer engagement, and differentiated application development to grow its leading positions in attractive end markets such as transportation, building and construction, and consumables. As a globally inclusive and diverse company, Eastman employs approximately 14,500 people around the world and serves customers in more than 100 countries. The company had 2019 revenues of approximately $9.3 billion and is headquartered in Kingsport, Tennessee, USA.
Source: Knitting Industry
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As far as Knitting fair knows, The US Cotton Trust Protocol is welcoming its first 10 US cotton textile manufacturers – Buhler Quality Yarns, Cap Yarns, CCW, Contempora Fabrics, Cotswold Industries Inc., Frontier Yarns, Hamrick Mills, Inman Mills, Parkdale Inc., Swisstex Direct as members. US Cotton Trust Protocol membership enables the mills and manufacturers to prove that they are an approved supply chain partner for brands and retailers who are sourcing more sustainably grown cotton.
“One of our goals with the Trust Protocol is to give brands and retailers greater confidence when including US cotton in their sourcing mix. Our emphasis on measurement and independent verification can provide confidence and trust that a brand is using quality, responsibly grown cotton and producing a product that consumers can believe in,” said Dr. Gary Adams, president of the US Cotton Trust Protocol.
“We are delighted that these US mills have joined the Trust Protocol as that supports the much sought-after supply chain transparency and by using US manufactured cotton products, brands and retailers are choosing a reliable and transparent partner right here in the USA.”
Mills and manufacturers who become members of the Trust Protocol have access to the Trust Protocol credit system to validate consumption of cotton and associated credits. The combination of a unique credit accounting system and the Permanent Bale Identification (PBI) system enables brands to have transparency throughout the supply chain to finished product.
The Trust Protocol has been invited to join Cotton 2040 and its CottonUp guide and also is on the Textile Exchange’s list of 36 preferred fibers and materials that more than 170 participating brands and retailers can select from as part of Textile Exchange’s Material Change Index program. In December the Trust Protocol also announced Gap Inc. joined as part of its integrated sustainability strategy and to help achieve its commitment to use only 100% sustainably sourced cotton by 2025.
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In a period of ever-greater supply chain scrutiny and a growing demand for transparency, the US Cotton Trust Protocol aims to set a new standard for more sustainably grown cotton. It also aims to bring quantifiable and verifiable goals and measurement to responsibly-grown cotton production and drives continuous improvement in key sustainability metrics.
“The Trust Protocol underpins and verifies US cotton’s progress through sophisticated data collection and independent third-party verification. Choosing Trust Protocol cotton will give brands and retailers the critical assurances they need that the cotton fibre element of their supply chain is more sustainably grown with lower environmental and social risk. Brands and retailers will gain access to US cotton with sustainability credentials proven via Field to Market, measured via the Fieldprint Calculator and verified with Control Union Certifications,” the organisation says.
The US Cotton Trust Protocol is overseen by a multi-stakeholder Board of Directors comprised of representatives from brands and retailers, civil society and independent sustainability experts as well as the cotton-growing industry, including growers, ginners, merchants, wholesalers and cooperatives, mills and cottonseed handlers.
Leading global apparel company Gap Inc. has joined the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol and Textile Exchange’s 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge as part of its integrated sustainability strategy and to help it achieve its commitment to use only 100% sustainably sourced cotton by 2025.
Gap Inc.’s target of sourcing 100% of its cotton from more sustainable sources by 2025 is set across its collection of purpose-led lifestyle brands including Old Navy, Gap, Banana Republic and Athleta.
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The Trust Protocol will help Gap Inc. meet this goal by providing verified data on the sustainability practices used on U.S. cotton farms. Participating cotton growers will benefit from data-driven insights and best practices from across the industry, as well as a stronger connection to brands asking for sustainably grown cotton. The Trust Protocol opened for membership in October 2020 and provides brands and retailers with the critical assurance they need to prove that the cotton in their supply chain is more responsibly grown.
“Continuous improvement is important to Gap Inc., which is why we have decided to begin sourcing more sustainable fibre through the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol. As part of our commitment to address climate change by aligning with the best science and industry practices, we have ambitious targets across metrics to lower carbon emissions and preserve precious natural resources like water. As an American company with purpose-led brands committed to sustainability, joining the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol makes perfect sense,” said Alice Hartley, Director of Product Sustainability for Gap Inc. “With two thirds of U.S. cotton not using any irrigation at all, this allows us to further our commitment to sustainable cotton and enables us to support U.S. cotton growers.”
Source: Knitting Industry
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