In the knitting exhibition, breathable fabrics have always been very popular, whether natural or chemical materials need to consider the issue of breathability.
The ease or otherwise of the passage of air is of importance for a number of fabrics end uses such as industrial filters, tents, sailcloth’s, parachutes, bulletproof, windproof, raincoat materials, shirting’s, down proof fabrics and airbags.
Fabric air permeability is a measure to what extent it gives air passing through the fabric. Air permeability, a given area in the vertical direction of the air flow rate, a given time period, as measured by the fabric test area inside the pressure difference of the fabric. Basically, it depends on weight, thickness and porosity of fabric. The porosity of fabric is the demonstration of the air gap as a percentage within the fabric. It has been important for especially the tent fabric and parachute.
The reciprocal of air permeability, air resistance, can be defined as the time in seconds for ImI of air to pass through 100s mm2 of fabric under a pressure head of 10mm of water. The advantage of using air resistance instead of air permeability to characterize a fabric is that in an assembly of a number of fabrics, the total air resistance is then the sum of the individual air resistance.
Fabrics, are porous materials which allow the transmission of energy and substances and are therefore interesting materials for different applications. In general, they are used for clothing, interior and wide range of technical applications
Garments must be characterized by good air circulation between the skin surface and the environment, good ventilation at skin level and the possibility of eliminating the excess humidity generated through perspiration.
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Air permeability Definition
The air permeability of woven fabrics is important because it influences the comfort properties of the final product – garments. The air permeability can be controlled during the design stage through: the characteristics of the raw material (the type of fibres and blend ratio), the geometric characteristics of the yarns used, the structural parameters of the woven fabrics, the technology used to produce the fabrics and the finishing process.
Air permeability, simply a physical ability of a fabric to let certain air flow through under differential pressure between either surface, refers to the speed at which water vapour molecules transmit into the top layer. Fabrics with different surface textures on either side can have a different air permeability depending upon the direction of air flow. Air permeability and fabric porous structure are correlated and indicate the breathability which makes great differences in the performance of materials. That is to say, air permeability and porous fabric structure affect how breathable a garment is; besides, air permeability can be measured, whereas breathability is more subjective.
In the British Standard test, the airflow through a given area of fabric is measured at a constant pressure drop across the fabric of 10mm head of water. The specimen is clamped over the air inlet of the apparatus with the use of rubber gaskets and the air is sucked through it by means of a pump as shown in Fig.A. The air valve is adjusted to give a pressure drop across the fabric of 10mm head of water and the air flow is then measured using a flow meter.
Five specimens are used each with a test area of 508mm2 (25.4mm diameter) and the mean air flow in ml per second is calculated from the five results. From this, the air permeability can be calculated in ml per 100mm2 per second.
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To obtain accurate results in the test, edge leakage around the specimen has to be prevented by using a guard ring or similar device (for example, efficient clamping). The pressure drop across the guard ring is measured by a separate pressure gauge. Air that is drawn through the guard ring does not pass through the flowmeter. The pressure drops across the guard ring and test area are equalized in order that no air can pass either way through the edge of the specimen. A guard ring of three times the size of the test area is considered sufficient.
Classification of fabrics: based on fabric type there are four types of fabrics
Woven fabric: this has been defined as the interlacing/ interlacement of warp and weft yarns where minimum two sets of yarns are needed and warp yarn stay in vertical and parallel to the selvedges.
Knitted fabrics: This has been defined as the interloping/interlocking/ intermeshing of warp yarn where minimum one set of yarn is needed.
Non-Woven fabrics: this has been defined as the mechanical/chemical/thermal bonding to make non-woven fabrics.
Braided fabrics: this is defined as the intertwining/diagonal/interlacement to make braided fabric where minimum three sets of yarns are needed
Factors that Affect Air Permeability/Fabric porous structure of textile fabrics
Correlation between porosity and air permeability of fabric is very complicated because changes of the textile structure (by the influence of the venting system), can be possibly classified as a horizontal increase in porosity. A correlation relationship has been elaborated between the percentage of open porosity for double layer fabrics and air permeability, considering the use of the different system of reed denting.
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Fabric porosity is an important parameter in the assessment of clothing comfort and physical properties of technical textiles and the porosity are defined by the ratio of free space to fibre in a given volume of fabric. The porous are by voids between weft and warp yarns in the fabrics. The air passes through the pores from the surface of the fabric. Tightness factor can be used for fabric air permeability forecasting. The high correlation between the permeability to air and the tightness factor confirms that. Porosity is affected by yarn number or yarn count number. … Increasing loop length, looser the structure and so the values of air permeability increases.
Source: textiles school
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In order to produce the fabric with maximum cover factor with the minimum weight, it’s only possible when GH is the distance between the loops in a horizontal direction and KJ is the correct length between the loops in a longitudinal direction. In this article knitting fair explains geometrical pattern of knitted fabrics.
The model of the relationship between the loop, the order of the loop length and the length of the loop in the loop was developed. The coordinate values of the points illustrated were calculated which define the central axis of yarn using the spline curves in Abaqus / CAE. Abaqus / CAE calculates the shape of the curve using a cubic spline fit between all points along the spline; In addition, the first and second derivatives of the spline are continuous. The 3D models of plain weft knit fabrics can be generated by sweeping the circular cross section of the yarn along the central axis of the yarn. Yarns were assumed to be incompressible in nature.
Knitted fabrics have a good stretch property that offers better conformability and avoids excessive pressure between the garment and body. Many researchers have analyzed the geometrical pattern of knitted fabrics. In 1926 Chamberlain presented a two-dimensional loop structure of the plain knitted fabric. He proposed that the theoretically correct fabric, in which GH represents the distance between the centres of two loops, GKH represent the equilateral triangle and KJ bisect the equilateral triangle.
In Chamberlain’s model, there is no consideration of loop in the third dimension in order to produce the fabric with a maximum cover factor, but it is only possible when GH is the distance between the loops in a horizontal direction and KJ is the correct length between the loops in the longitudinal direction. So the length of the loop cannot be predicted with high accuracy. In 1947 Peirce developed a geometric model of plain weft knit fabric on the assumption that the loop formed from the circular arc and straight line and the yarn central axis follows a path on the surface of cylinder following the direction of a course. In order to develop the relationship of stitch length in terms of yarn diameter, wales and course spacing.
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Knitted fabrics have a good stretch property which offers better conformability and avoids excessive pressure between the garment and body . Many researchers analysed the geometrical model of knitted fabrics. In 1926 Chamberlain presented a two-dimensional loop structure of the plain knitted fabric. He proposed that the theoretically correct fabric as shown in Equation-1, in which GH represents the distance between the centres of two loops, GKH represent the equilateral triangle and KJ bisect the equilateral triangle. In order to produce the fabric with maximum cover factor with the minimum weight, it’s only possible when GH is the distance between the loops in a horizontal direction and KJ is the correct length between the loops in a longitudinal direction.
In Chamberlain’s model, there was no consideration of a loop in the third dimension so the length of the loop cannot be predicted with high accuracy. In 1947 Peirce developed a geometrical model of plain weft knitted fabric on the assumption that the loop composed of a circular arc and straight line and the yarn central axis follows a path on the surface of cylinder following the direction of a course. In order to develop the relationship of stitch length in terms of yarn diameter, wales and course spacing he considered the flat structure of plain weft knitted fabric as shown in Figure 2. In his compact planned structure, the course ( p’ ) and wales ( w ) spacing can be calculated by Equation 8 & 9 respectively.
Leaf and Glaskin pointed out that the stable knitted fabric loop structure could not be produced by the model proposed by the Peirce. They showed that the Peirce considered the radius of curvature R = 4.172d for all types of the loop which gave the discontinuity in the torsion of yarn and eventually affected the shape of loops. They proposed a geometrical model of plain weft knitted fabric in which the central axis of yarn passes over a series of a circular cylinder and their model composed of circular arcs as shown in Figure 4.
Source: textiles school
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According to knitting fair, Cotton Council International (CCI) has joined the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) and will use the group’s sustainability measurement suite of tools, the Higg Index, to drive environmental and social responsibility throughout its supply chain.
Cotton Council International (CCI) has joined the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) and will use the group’s sustainability measurement suite of tools, the Higg Index, to drive environmental and social responsibility throughout its supply chain.
With its membership in the SAC, CCI joins more than 250 global brands, retailers, and manufacturers, as well as government, non-profit environmental organizations, and academic institutions, which are collectively committed to improving supply chain sustainability in the apparel, footwear, and textile industry.
The US cotton industry is committed to continual improvement in sustainability and continues to build upon the strong environmental gains already achieved over the past 35 years.
“We are pleased to be joining the SAC, confident that together we can scale positive impact on product sustainability over time,” said Steph Thiers-Ratcliffe, CCI Director of European Brands and Retailers. “With shared ambition in providing robust environmental data to the sector, we will collaborate to enable greater supply chain transparency and informed decision making.”
In its relationship with the SAC, CCI will contribute both data and resources to support the Higg Index, which measures sustainability performance and drives supply chain transparency and decision-making to improve efficiency and sustainability impact. The Higg Index is an indicator-based suite of tools that enables suppliers, manufacturers, brands, and retailers to evaluate materials, products, facilities, and processes based on environmental performance, social labour practices, and product design choices.
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“We welcome the addition of CCI to the Sustainable Apparel Coalition and look forward to its participation in this industry-wide effort in sustainability,” SAC Executive Director Amina Razvi said. “Having CCI as part of the Coalition widens the scope of our impact within the industry and accelerates the change, we’re making towards responsible industry actions.”
Trust Protocol will join BCI, CmiA, Fairtrade Cotton, Organic Cotton and Recycled Cotton as a preferred cotton fibre.
The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol has been added to Textile Exchange’s list of preferred fibres and materials. The Trust Protocol will now be one of 36 fibres and materials that over 170 participating brands and retailers can select from as part of Textile Exchange’s Material Change Index program.
Textile Exchange defines a preferred fibre or material as one which results in improved environmental and/or social sustainability outcomes and impacts in comparison to conventional production. The Trust Protocol will join a portfolio of more sustainable cotton production initiatives including the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), Cotton Made in Africa (CmiA), Fairtrade Cotton, Organic Cotton, REEL, ISCC, and Recycled Cotton as a preferred cotton fibre.
The master list of preferred fibres and materials evolves over time as sustainability innovations prove themselves. Textile Exchange consults widely with its members and NGO partners to ensure the categories are always reflective of the latest thinking.
“We are pleased to see the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol recognized on Textile Exchange’s list of preferred fibres and materials,” said Ken Burton, executive director of the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol. “The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is an industry-wide system that will guide U.S. cotton growers to continuously improve and reduce their environmental footprint. We will provide brands and retailers with aggregate data that track the efforts of U.S. cotton growers to improve water and soil conservation and reduce greenhouse gases. These data will support the fashion and retail industries in their efforts to demonstrate progress toward sustainability goals.”
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Textile Exchange encourages companies to accelerate their use of preferred fibres and acknowledges and honours companies that recognize the importance of integrating a preferred fibre and materials strategy into their business practices.
“At Textile Exchange, our mission is to inspire and equip people to accelerate sustainable practices in the textile value chain,” said La Rhea Pepper, Managing Director of Textile Exchange. “We’re pleased to add Trust Protocol cotton to our list of preferred fibre and materials, which will give brands and retailers another option to source sustainable cotton as they integrate preferred fibers into their business strategy.”
Source: Knitting Industry
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