Textile Design in Apparel Making

The design is an arrangement of part, form, color, fabric, and line. For example, to create a version of a style. This definition is applicable for apparel or clothing. In general, the design is arrangement putting out creative ideas on paper or any of the three-dimensional form.There are different types of designs such as industrial design, graphic design, textile design, fashion design, etc.

Designing in Textile Industry

There are different types of designs such as industrial design, graphic design, textile design, fashion design, etc.

Textile design

Is the design of fabrics for a Variety of purposes from clothes to carpets. In this professions, the color, shape, texture, and pattern are the key elements.

Fashion design

It is concerned with how needs are identified, related and in some cases stimulated. It affects the ways in which our materials, energy, skills and other resources are employed to satisfy them fully, it calls upon enterprise enthusiasm, inventiveness and ingenuity, scientific discovery and technical knowledge, the power of visualization together with knowledge of human capabilities and aesthetic sensibility. Designing requires patience and planning. Crating or styling the appearance of a person with reference to clothing, accessories beauty in corresponding with the personality of any individual is fashion designing.Fashion designing involves knowledge of basic elements of designing, understanding color cycle, a brief study of the history of clothing, knowledge of fibers and different fabrics.Fashion can be defined as a design that is accepted by a given segment of the population.

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Fashion is constantly changing and as a new design becomes popular a new standard of beauty becomes desirable. Often a new fashion begins when the proportion of a garment is altered, for example, a silhouette is changed in width or a skirt is lengthened. Usually, when a truly innovative fashion begins, it takes a long time for the general public to retain its eye and develop an appreciation for a new look. As more people wear the item interpret it in many different ways, the mass of people finds it easier to accept the fashion, as beautiful.Designing means moving from the state of randomness to the higher state of organization, to create a design or impression or to communicate an important/ innovative idea. On the highest-level design is the careful and knowledgeable manipulation of art elements to produce an expressive personal idea.

There are two basic divisions of designing in the field of garment technology.

1. Structural designing

2. Decorative designing

Structural Design

Structural designs are intrinsic parts of materials. They are created through manipulation of fabrications, color, or texture. Structural design created through fabrication depends on the use of color and texture in the yarns forming loops or interlacing patterns in the fabric. The knitting machines or looms must also have the technology for varying fabric structure. Structural designs formed as the material is made.Structural design includes the all over design of a garment. The form and shape plus all the details involved in assembling the sections of the garment such as darts, pleats, tucks, etc are the part of structural design.It may add a decorative quality if emphasized by color contrast or row of topstitching to outline the basic garment parts. In apparel, structural design is more important because it is the fundamental component of the design.To draw a structural design a form or human croquet is not necessary. The designers in the buying house do these designs. In this category, the designs are drawn on the specification chart where many trimmings are not used. This design will be simple and well defined by their construction, color, thread, and trimmings to be used. It will not be draped on the form. It will be speeded so that the pattern master can create a proper sample according to the specifications mentions such as its measurements, its sweep line (Hemline) its neckline and any other type of cuts used.

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Decorative Design

Here it refers to the design, which is drawn by the beginner (learners) as well as the boutique designers. These drawn will be draped over it. It is not produced in bulk so it will have more trimmings, prints, embroidery, buttons (that do not fasten) and tacked on bows. The customer will select the garment that is designed, then it will be very costly, in these designs the fabric style and color combinations are described so that one can select the design. In this design category specification charts are not prepared, not it is stitched for standard measurement. It is the design and outfit are made for an individual customer.The decorative design is created by printing, embroidery, quilting, appliqué, or other forms of fabric decoration. Some decorative designs are mass produced and very economical. Others are individual creations that are highly labor intensive. Roller and screen printing is probably the most commonly used forms of decorative design. Problems that are sometimes associated with printed designs are fuzzy patterns.In general, structural designs are more permanent better quality; and more durable than decorative designs. Structural designs are more expensive to produce than decorative designs due to slower production and longer set up time.

For more industry information, please pay attention to Knitting Fair.

Source: textile school

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The textile industry is considered as the most ecologically harmful industry in the world. The Eco-problems in textile industry occur during some production processes and are carried forward right to the finished product. In the production process like bleaching and then dyeing, the subsequent fabric makes a toxin that swells into our ecosystem.Therefore the need for eco-textiles is felt.Green textiles refer to clothing and other accessories that are designed to use the organic and recycled material.

What is Eco-Textiles?

In recent years ecological issues have loomed large especially in textile and apparel industry, an industry not noted for eco-friendliness.Every textile item releases effluents that are harmful to the environment.The traditional textile industry consumes large amounts of earth’s natural resources and pollutes the environment as their production and processing involve Chemical Intensive Applications, therefore, the need for green textiles. During the production process controlling pollution is as vital as making a product free from the toxic effect. The utilization of rayon for clothing has added to the fast depleting forests and opened the door to the development of natural sustainable fibers like Organic Cotton, Hemp, and Bamboo fibers. Petroleum-based products are harmful to the environment. In order to safeguard our environment from these effects, an integrated pollution control approach is needed.Fabrics made in an eco-friendly way can substitute normal products.Green textiles refer to clothing and other accessories that are designed to use organic and recycled materials, less packaging and more energy-efficient manufacturing.Reducing the environmental impact throughout the life-cycle of a fabric item or using lower impact products can contribute actively to improve the situation.In general, there are four major environmental key factors associated with the making of textiles: water, energy, pollution, and use of non-renewable resources.

Green Activities in Textile Industries

Textile and clothing manufacturers are encouraged to re-examine the whole life cycle of their products with the aim to minimize environmental degradation at every stage, from manufacturing to disposal. They have to pay special attention in the selection of dyes and ensure the products are low in formaldehyde and free from pesticides and heavy metals. The reason behind those environmental requirements in textile and garment are as follows:

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Human skin has a light acid coating which inhibits the development of many diseases, textiles in which the pH lies in the neutral(pH7) or slightly acid region(below 7)are friendly to the skin. Alos, under extreme pH conditions fabric will be damaged.

Easy care finishing incorporates artificial resin containing formaldehyde which is intended to prevent shrinkage and to give the product a crease- resistant, smooth dry and soil release finish. However, resin finished fabric may retain chlorine resulting in fishy odor, fabric damage, and skin irritations. Formaldehyde is found in clothing in a latent form as resin and also as free formaldehyde (split off from the resin by high temperature, pH or oxidants). Formaldehyde has a strong irritant effect on the mucous membrane and may cause inflammation of the human respiratory tract. It can also give rise to inflammation of the skin. Formaldehyde is one of the most significant allergy-causing agents and is probably also cancer inducing.

Pesticides are used in cotton cultivation for combating insects and also as moth protection during storage. They are rated from slightly to strongly toxic for humans. Sometimes they are very easily assimilated into the skin.Linden is a possible cause assumed to be cancer inducing.

To prevent mold spots(caused by fungi) chlorinated phenols are applied directly on the textiles and leather mainly in the third world countries. Both PCP and TCP are very toxic and regarded as cancer-inducing substances.

This is the name of the group of synthetic dyestuffs based on nitrogen and which are often used for textiles.Separation products of certain Azo dyestuffs are regarded as cancer-inducing and allergic. If a person has once been sensitized, other products which are containing Azo dyestuffs will lead to allergic reactions.

The presence of nickel in certain objects coming into direct and prolonged skin contact may cause sensitization of humans to nickel and may lead to allergic reactions.The use of nickel in such objects is thus limited. Such objects include rivet buttons, tighteners, rivets, zippers and metal marks when these are used in garments.

For more industry information, please pay attention to Knitting Fair.

Source: textile school

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Fabric air permeability is a measure to what extent it gives air passing through the fabric. The porosity of fabric is the demonstration of the air gap as a percentage within the fabric. It has been important for especially the tent fabric and parachute. Knitting Expo will introduce you the level of textile fabrics ’s air permeability differs depending on the following.

I. Fabric Structure: Woven fabric specifications

Fabric construction: –warp count x weft count/ends per inch x picks per inch

Fabric area density/GSM

Cover factor—changing the area density and/or the cover factor may affect strength, stiffness, stability, porosity, filtering quality and abrasion resistance of fabric. Application of jammed fabrics or closely woven fabrics finds use in waterproof, windproof, bulletproof requirements.

Type of weave

Crimp

Fabric width

thickness

Under the same tightness of the fabric, the air permeability of the fabric is inversely proportional to the yarn density; from the aspect of the texture of the fabric, under the same arrangement density and tightness, the air permeability is ranked as plain weave/twill/satin/porous structure; the fabric with a larger volume fraction has a lower air permeability.

II. Fibre Properties

Type of interlace, type of fibre (spun or strand), size of the fibre (Linear toughness), twist factor in the fibre, strand toughness (ends and picks) and fold are other material parameters that affect the air permeability of a material. Moreover, the moisture regains of the fibre has a significant effect on the air permeability.

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When the wool fabric increases with the moisture regain, the air permeability drops significantly due to the radial expansion of the fibre. The surface shape and cross-sectional shape of the fibre will increase the resistance of the airflow due to the increase of the shape barrier and the specific surface machine: The shorter the fibre, the greater the rigidity as well as the probability of product hairiness, hence the poorer the air permeability.

III. Yarn Structure

The tighter the structure of the yarn, the smaller the penetration within the yarn but the greater the penetration between the yarns. The material, twist and smoothness of the yarn contributes to permeability. The material type and amount of yarn twist, count and yarn structure manufactured by Ring spinning, Open end, Air textured, condenser spinning methods does impact on fabric air permeability. Some important parameters related are pore in the fabric were taken in to account like the cross-section of the pore, depth of pore or thickness of fabric and number of pores per unit area.

IV. Environmental Conditions

Under the constant temperature, the air permeability of the fabric decreases with the increase of relative humidity, due to the hygroscopic expansion of the fibres which reduces the internal voids of the fabric and some moisture can block the passage. Under the constant relative humidity, the air permeability of the fabric increases as the ambient temperature increases. Because when the ambient temperature rises, on the one hand, the thermal motion of the gas molecules is intensified, leading to the diffusion of molecules, which enhances the permeability. On the other hand, the thermal expansion of the fabric as a whole improves the permeability of the fabric.

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V. Other Aspect

Besides the above, air permeability of material also hangs on parameters like the material cover and material permeability. Sum cover of material is known as the ratio area concealed by the covering and the stuffing fibres to the area concealed by the material. The kind of knit decides the way in which the fibres are twisted in the material. The air permeability of the materials can be altered by changing the way of knitting. When the size of the fibre changes, the same happen in the fibre of the material hence the permeability of the material changes.

Advanced fabric production project demands developing strategies with regard to new fabric constructions and it should have the desired end-usage properties as per there applications. For specified Fabric, we need to have complete knowledge and understanding of porous barrier between the human body and environment. This should support heat and water vapour exchange between the body and environment in order to keep the body temperature within the homeostasis range.

Besides thermo-physiological protection, fabrics also play an important role by heat protection due to the flames or convection heat, contact heat, radiant heat as well as due to the sparks and drops of molten metal, hot gases and vapours.

Source: textile school

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